I have a 15-year old ceramic hob Samsung C21RJAN
Bottom circle (I don't know what you call it ) is not turning on when I press the sensor button.
Buttons are working and I can select heating level with +/- and it shows numbers for the circle.
I took it to the local repair shop, and they only said it was electronics and not the heater element.
I am not sure that they have done proper job and tested it correctly, so I would like to try see for myself if I can repair it.
I have found images of the PCB on the web:
I can see that there are not many components, only chip and on other side few dozen components.
Is this worth a try to repair?
Does anyone have a clue what a problem can be, what to search for?
That is not an induction hob. It's a ceramic hob so the heating elements are powered from directly from the mains at 220 V 50 Hz.
The control board consists of a low-power switch mode power supply on the left, a microprocessor on the bottom and the three relays on the right (although there is space for a forth). Under each relay there is a SOT23 transistor that powers the relay coil and is controlled by the microcontroller, presumably. The level of heating is set by turning the heating on and off every few seconds.
The first thing to check is if the relays are working. I've repaired appliances before now by just replacing relays like that.
My only other advice would be to buy an induction hob, as they are so much nicer to use than ceramic hobs.
I replaced a ceramic hob with an induction hob and it was really easy to swap them over. That was a 4-ring hob, but there are plenty of 2-ring hobs available.
It's certainly worth a look at the relays. I think that they are something like this:- https://uk.farnell.com/schrack-te-connectivity/9-1393243-7/relay-dpst-no-250vac-8a/dp/2060869
The 2-pole NO (normally open) ones have 6 pins in total. Farnell show the same picture for any in the range, and some have 8 pins.
I don't know what coil voltage you need, but it will be written on the existing relays.
I will disassemble the device these days, so I will definitely check that one.
My main concern is the chip, but there are no indications whatsoever that it is faulty, as far as I can tell by using the buttons.
The rest of the components seem easy to replace.
I have disassembled the hob, and I have taken out 2 PCB boards.
The first one is the touch board and second one is the main board.
Here is what I've checked so far:
- heater elements are good
- ribbon cable is good
- relays have coil resistance about 345 ohms (360 is in Datasheet) which is ok
- relay terminals when switched OFF are in open state
What I plan next to do is to connect 9V battery to coil terminals to check if relays are switching ON.
I've tested all relays with 9V battery (datasheet states that coil needs min. 8.4V).
The middle (RED) relay doesn't switch ON, while two outer ones (BRN and ORG) switch ON.
I can hear two outer ones click and terminals have continuity, while the middle one clicks very faintly and it doesn't have continuity (as you can see in the image).
So, the middle one (RED) is faulty.
Red wire goes from middle relay to bottom heater element, so this is the reason why is not turning on.
The middle (RED) relay doesn't switch ON, while two outer ones (BRN and ORG) switch ON.
I can hear two outer ones click and terminals have continuity, while the middle one clicks very faintly and it doesn't have continuity
So, the middle one (RED) is faulty.
Red wire goes from middle relay to bottom heater element, so this is the reason why is not turning on. View attachment 148517
Relays like those can't be repaired but it might be interesting to open it up to see what has gone wrong. In my experience there is often a lot of damage from heat when they have gone wrong. The normal amount of heat generated when the relay is working is minimal. It is only the coil current times the coils voltage plus the load current times the voltage drop. A bad connection can make the voltage drop increase a lot, maybe from a few millivolts to a few volts, and the heat will still work well enough that no problem is noticed, but now there is a lot of heat generated in the relay, and parts will melt quite quickly.
I will replace the relay to see if it fixes the issue.
I've found the relays in local shop that I think are match.
I've looked for SPST-NO, 16A, 12VDC, 250AC relays and found two Schrack that can do.
Can you confirm they are matching and what is the difference between them?
Price is the same.