Sharing A Speaker With An DY-SV19T For MP3 Files And ESP32 For Tone

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_John_

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Hello, I have a project in which I'd like to use the DY-SV19T to play mp3 files and also use an ESP32 to play tones through the same speaker. When I hook them both up to the same speaker the DY-SV19T plays fine but the ESP32 doesn't play the tone.

I found if I put a 10ohm resistor between the - of the speaker and the ground of the ESP32 they both play fine. But when the DY-SV19T plays an MP3 file the resistor gets very hot quickly. I put several resistors in parallel equalling 10ohms which slows down the heat, but this isn't an ideal solution.

I hoping to get some insight into this problem here. Any ideas as to what the cause of this is or potential solutions would be greatly appreciated.
 
Solution
*Final Update*

I finally received my DY-SV19T. I did what Nigel recommended by removing the zero-ohm resistor. Which was so small I wasn't able to desolder it. So I just crushed it with some snips. I added a 10-ohm resistor between RP-IN and RP-OUT. And then a 2k ohm resistor between the tone output pin and RP-IN. And bingo! flawless audio.

Oddly enough, it works if I run it to RP-OUT also.

Anyway, one last big thank you to Nigel! You rock man!
There are two pins on the DY-SV19T module RP_OUT and RP_IN, with a zero ohm resistor joining them together - if you remove the resistor you can insert a volume control in there.

I would suggest removing the zero ohm resistor and putting a fixed resistor (try 4.7K) between RP_OUT and RP_IN, and then feed the output from the ESP via another resistor to RP_IN (probably) - it's not very clear which is the input and which is the output? (due to the way the schematic shows a volume control connected). You can select the resistor from the ESP to give the relative volume you require - you might start at 47K, on the assumption that the signal level there is less than logic levels.

You can't just go bodging things to speaker outputs.
 
Hi Nigel,

Thanks for the response! The version of the DY-SV19T doesn't seem to have an RP_OUT or RP_IN. It looks like those pins were replaced with DACL and DACR. I also don't see any 0ohm resistors.

I'll attach a couple pictures.




Thanks again for the help!
 
That makes things more tricky then - but the input of the power amplifier is pin 4, which according to the datasheet for the LTK5128 is fed through a capacitor and a series resistor, you could try applying the output of the ESP to pin 4 via another capacitor and resistor, selecting the resistor to give the volume you require.
 
Thank you Nigel! I tried several configurations and the closest I could get was with a 10uf cap and 100k resistor. It still had some problems though and it was a pain soldering to the pin. I think my best bet is just to use a second speaker. Little 3w speakers are cheap anyway.

Thanks again! I appreciate your help!
 

I wouldn't have soldered to the pin, I've have soldered to the existing resistor which connects to the pin (larger and easier) - you also don't need a 10uF, a 0.1uF should be fine.
 
I did try a 0.1uF cap with a 100k resistor and just got clicking sounds. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, I don't know.

I realized two speakers won't work either because I want to be able to send the audio to headphones too.

So, now I've decided to go with the mistake I made in my original post. I couldn't find the DY-SV19T here in the US but did find an SV19R which seems to be pretty much the same thing. I'll try your first suggestion of removing the resistor and putting a suitable volume resistor between RP_OUT and RP_IN. And then feed the ESP32 tone to the RP_IN via another resistor.

I'm hoping the same Arduino library will work with it.

Thanks again! Hopefully, this will do the trick.
 
Hi ronni39843, the clicking problem was on the DY-SV17F. I made a mistake in my original post and called it a DY-SV19T. I appreciate the input though.
 
*Final Update*

I finally received my DY-SV19T. I did what Nigel recommended by removing the zero-ohm resistor. Which was so small I wasn't able to desolder it. So I just crushed it with some snips. I added a 10-ohm resistor between RP-IN and RP-OUT. And then a 2k ohm resistor between the tone output pin and RP-IN. And bingo! flawless audio.

Oddly enough, it works if I run it to RP-OUT also.

Anyway, one last big thank you to Nigel! You rock man!
 
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