ShopVac Fused Link replacement

JohnnyB60 · Mar 15, 2014

Hi everybody,

It’s been a while since I’ve been on, but I’m stuck with a fuse problem and hoping someone here might have an idea.

I’m looking for something to replace this fused link. I fixed my Dishwasher with a thermal fuse from Radio shack and just didn’t use the Plastic holder. I’m now thinking about doing the same thing for this, but I’m not sure what amperage or temp range it is.

Any ideas?

Update I just noticed a label on the Vacuum that says 11 Amps, but I don't think that's what I want.

cowboybob · Mar 15, 2014

This 15A slo-blo would probably work for you. Available in-store:
https://www.radioshack.com/product/...ce=CAT&znt_medium=RSCOM&znt_content=CT2032234
May or may not fit in your current fuse holder.

JohnnyB60 · Mar 15, 2014

cowboybob said:
This 15A slo-blo would probably work for you. Available in-store:
https://www.radioshack.com/product/...ce=CAT&znt_medium=RSCOM&znt_content=CT2032234
May or may not fit in your current fuse holder.

Thanks cowboybob for replying. I already have a lot of those type of fuses and your right they will not fit the holder. I think instead of trying to deal with the physical size of those, I found these Thermal Protector Fuses at Radio Shack plus it says 10amp. It would be easy to solder on to the wires, but if it’s the wrong size it’s a real pain in the butt to take the motor apart again.

rc3po · Mar 15, 2014

JohnnyB60 said:
Thanks cowboybob for replying. I already have a lot of those type of fuses and your right they will not fit the holder. I think instead of trying to deal with the physical size of those, I found these Thermal Protector Fuses at Radio Shack plus it says 10amp. It would be easy to solder on to the wires, but if it’s the wrong size it’s a real pain in the butt to take the motor apart again.

Those are the same kind that I used to fix my sons box fan. The temp was 170c if I remember right. I went ahead and bought a bunch of them in various temps to keep in case I need some more later on.

JohnnyB60 · Mar 15, 2014

rc3po said:
Those are the same kind that I used to fix my sons box fan. The temp was 170c if I remember right. I went ahead and bought a bunch of them in various temps to keep in case I need some more later on.

Thanks, I wish I knew how the temperature relates to the current because it looks like all the different temps have the same amps rating. I'm more of a AC electrical Power person than a electronics person and I understand the temp rating, but I'm stumped as to how current comes to play in this equation.

KeepItSimpleStupid · Mar 15, 2014

Look at Digikey for Polyswitch: https://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=0&y=0&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=polyswitch Your really going to need operating current and select one from there.

rc3po · Mar 15, 2014

JohnnyB60 said:
Thanks, I wish I knew how the temperature relates to the current because it looks like all the different temps have the same amps rating. I'm more of a AC electrical Power person than a electronics person and I understand the temp rating, but I'm stumped as to how current comes to play in this equation.

I'm not sure really. Maybe they do that so that the thermal fuses can be used in a wide variety of devices.

JohnnyB60 · Mar 15, 2014

KeepItSimpleStupid said:
Look at Digikey for Polyswitch: https://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=0&y=0&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=polyswitch Your really going to need operating current and select one from there.

Thanks I set the filter for 120V and 10A while leaving all the others open and got only one obsolete item.

I know everybody always recommends Digi-key including all the techs at my work, but I have just the hardest time finding anything thru them.

There is a radio Shack not to far from me and I'm just going to run over there and buy some various temp ranges and try them all out with the motor disassembled to see what happens.

JohnnyB60 · Mar 15, 2014

rc3po said:
I'm not sure really. Maybe they do that so that the thermal fuses can be used in a wide variety of devices.

I’m sure I probably learned something about this in one of my electrical engineering classes, but that was over 20 years ago. I just don’t remember any of that stuff anymore. I only know what I’ve been actively dealing with over the years.

rc3po · Mar 15, 2014

JohnnyB60 said:
I’m sure I probably learned something about this in one of my electrical engineering classes, but that was over 20 years ago. I just don’t remember any of that stuff anymore. I only know what I’ve been actively dealing with over the years.

I've been learning electronics seriously for a tad over a year now. And the more I learn, the more I'm aware of how much more there is to learn! Wow! Just so much information.

KeepItSimpleStupid · Mar 15, 2014

Digikey is totally online and there is no "flip thru" any more. I remember during a chat session, I asked how did you find it and got back "An old catalog". Mouser, allied and Newark still maintain the catalog pages, although not for everything. Ordering from what company "depends" on a lot of factors, the first being availability or in some cases the availability of 10 vs 1000.

rc3po · Mar 15, 2014

Mouser is too time consuming for me unless I already know the part#. I like sites like all-spec.com. I quit using Element14 because when they charge my account, it actually shows double removed from my balance. I called them and complained and the woman said it's their new system. When will people learn that new is not always good?
Since I'm just a hobbyist, I don't buy by the 1000's.

JohnnyB60 · Mar 15, 2014

rc3po said:
I've been learning electronics seriously for a tad over a year now. And the more I learn, the more I'm aware of how much more there is to learn! Wow! Just so much information.

Cool I wish I was just starting out especially with all this latest technology.

I’m 64 and have taken just so many continuation and refresher courses over the years for my job. Some I had to take due to my job requirements that I didn’t care for because I thought it was useless information. Then there were other classes that I knew I would never use, but really was excited about the endless possibilities if I only had a different job.

Now I just wish I could remember all of it. I have a coworker that remembers every little thing, but he can’t work with that information and needs constant guidance, so I guess I can’t complain. At least I can still look things up.

JohnnyB60 · Mar 15, 2014

I have a Mouser and Newark catalogs at work that I use all the time. I also have some very old obsolete catalogs that come in real handy for just looking things up. Everyone gives me a hard time about them, but when they can’t find a part number on some old equipment, they come to me.

rc3po · Mar 15, 2014

JohnnyB60 said:
Cool I wish I was just starting out especially with all this latest technology.

I’m 64 and have taken just so many continuation and refresher courses over the years for my job. Some I had to take due to my job requirements that I didn’t care for because I thought it was useless information. Then there were other classes that I knew I would never use, but really was excited about the endless possibilities if I only had a different job.

Now I just wish I could remember all of it. I have a coworker that remembers every little thing, but he can’t work with that information and needs constant guidance, so I guess I can’t complain. At least I can still look things up.

I'm 53. It gives me something constructive to do instead of playing games all the time. Plus I can save money fixing my own devices and stuff. I'm not afraid to take anything apart.

KeepItSimpleStupid · Mar 15, 2014

The taking apart stuff happened at an early age. Anything electro/mechanical got taken apart before throwing it away even if it was just "How does it work".

Fix doesn't seem possible now. I guess the new versions of me would have 3D printers at their disposal to make a better part.

rc3po · Mar 15, 2014

KeepItSimpleStupid said:
The taking apart stuff happened at an early age. Anything electro/mechanical got taken apart before throwing it away even if it was just "How does it work".

Fix doesn't seem possible now. I guess the new versions of me would have 3D printers at their disposal to make a better part.

I meant take apart to fix. We both know that 9 out of 10 times the culprit is an e-cap, or something simple. Most things can be fixed it seems. I haven't got into 3D printers. It does seem like the parts they make are pretty strong.

cowboybob · Mar 15, 2014

JohnnyB60

Don't confuse a thermal fuse with a current fuse.

The thermal fuse "kicks" out at a preset temperature, not an over current. Their current rating is like that of a piece of wire, not a value at which they "blow"

They are used in hair dryers, for instance, should the output (or input) become occluded , causing the dryer to overheat.

JohnnyB60 · Mar 15, 2014

cowboybob said:
JohnnyB60

Don't confuse a thermal fuse with a current fuse.

The thermal fuse "kicks" out at a preset temperature, not an over current. Their current rating is like that of a piece of wire, not a value at which they "blow"

They are used in hair dryers, for instance, should the output (or input) become occluded , causing the dryer to overheat.

Thanks, I figured it out after I got to radio shack and read the package, but I bought it anyway because it was rated for 10 amps. So I figured it just might blow out if it goes over that.

Anyway I went ahead and installed that thermal fuse. I decided to drill out the holder to fit the fuse and soldered it inside. This way I can plug the holder back in and insulate the connections.

It’s back together and working, but I don’t know for how long. I guess time will tell. In the meantime I'll try to find another fuse link. the original was just a round filament about the size of a #12 wire.

JohnnyB60 · Mar 15, 2014

I found these 10A Fuse-Links at Grainger, but there is no way I’m paying that much when I can buy a new ShopVac for that,.

https://www.grainger.com/product/COOPER-BUSSMANN-Fuse-Link-4XK00?s_pp=false

ShopVac Fused Link replacement

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