12DC Sockets

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so I've seen 'in series' & 'in parallel' used, what does that mean in plain english
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Series: in the zener sim, R1 and Z1 are in series, i.e., in a row, one after the other. A current will flow through them both, equally.

Parallel: In the zener sim, R1 and the load resistor are in parallel, i.e., both devices are hooked together top and bottom, side by side. A current will split between them, with differing currents through each unless both exhibit identical resistance.

whats the difference, they all seem to do the same job
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For our purposes, there are no differences. How they accomplish our purposes vary, but the outcome is essentially the same, i.e., voltage and power regulation.

You're getting better at this.
 
Hey KISS,

Penance indeed. That's just mean.

Oh. Wait. Only 1E-12 to 1e6. That's OK. Not so mean. Sound advice, Muttley600.

BTW, I thought "yotta" was a little, fat Jedi guy...
 
SHUNT: The easy way out for me): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shunt_(electrical)

For power supplies they don't like series and parallel because it tends to refer to the operation of multiple power supplies. There are terms like master/slave and series/parallel operation of identical supplies.

Power supply topologies include series/shunt and switching/linear. The LM317 is an adjustable voltage, fixed current limit, linear power supply Integrated Circuit.
 
AVFCLLPSIC.

Or, technically, that hot thingy in there.

And as the engineering notation, they've left out:

Infinityllion = the most

and

Infinityth = the least.
 
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Ok, while I'm out, next question has to be, the links I found earlier, do they stop spikes/transients/noise or is a TVA diode still needed

The Zener.....no, don't run off, what is the difference between linked items & a Zener supplying a 5v supply voltage?

I will try & understand how to measure mini pcb circuit tomorrow.eek!
 
what is the difference between linked items & a Zener supplying a 5v supply voltage?
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If I'm understanding your question:

The zener is the "Supply" (or Source) and the linked item(s) is, are the the "Load" (or Drain), i.e., battery(Source) - light(Drain). The juice is being produced by the Source and the juice is being used by the Drain.
 
Back to your differences in regulators.

NTE is a company that makes replacement parts. See www.nteinc.com. The NTE is a fixed voltage linear regulator which isn't very efficient. If you had a 12 V system and you drew 1 amp from it, the regulator would have to dissipate (13-5)/1 Amp Watts.

The other two are a low component count, high efficiency, switching regulator with various protections such as undervoltage and over temperature.

Your cigarette adapter is a simple switching regulator without the protections afforded in the IC design. It didn't simulate well, because ZD1 is not a regular diode (1n4148). Try a 1n5733 or a 1n4733 if you have them available which are a 5.1 V zener diode instead of a 1n4148.

Those switching regulator IC's are good choices.
 
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Outstanding, KISS.

Swapped out D1 for a 1N4733 (now Z1) and the output went to about 5.77VDC and held it when I tied in a load resistor between Gnd. and the + side of C2 and varied it between 25 thru 500 Ohms and it held that output.

Durn, that worked well. Thanks for the help. It is much appreciated. Another button mash for you...
 
Thanks for explaining CBB

KISS certainly knows his components maybe one day I'll understand better
Nice to finally solve cig pcb, thanks again, now I can cut parts open to see what they look like, that really will be an end to the pcb learning after little practise soldering on it, as I said, ace value. £2.49 & three weeks entertainment, all I gotta do to let it go now is understand that oscillation measurement

So I can start drawing up list of parts for rear box now, then we can add to it, very excited to getting closer & actually having a play, so does anything else need to be added beside that 5v reg edit: does that need a heatsink? what about CBB's overvoltage thingy, what about TVS, I take it that will deal with noise for audio equipment running off it

Great film tonight, even brought a tear to my eye, what a waste of life the war was :-(

Catch you both tomorrow & as always, thanks for your continued support
Best Regards
Graham
 
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Graham,

No prob. My pleasure.

KISS. I'll try the lesser zener. Didn't even think of that...
 
Morning CBB
I've tried a different zener but when I change voltage, I'm still getting different volts?
Did you disconnect T3 Collector
 
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Here are the "final" (like anything's final) adapter schematics.

Note the high overall circuit current (>1.8A). Don't know why that is.

Over range of loads (25Ω, 500Ω and 1KΩ) the output VDC remains pretty constant.

View attachment 60988 View attachment 60989 View attachment 60990

What was D1 is now Z1, a 1N4732 zener, as KISS suggested. Made all the difference in the world to circuit response.
 
So to play devils advocate, what happens if you change the voltage to 24?
I only ask this as load was a given for device it supplied but it was meant to be ok between 12/24V

Am I right in assuming caps limit noise on system?

& just what time In the morning do you guys get up.lol
 
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Yes, to a degree. The electrolytics help "smooth" most AC (noise) ripple on the DC line.

Here's the circuit at 24VDC input. Minor shift in output voltage. Pretty big shift in overall current level, though. Thirsty little bugger... Could probably heat your house with the dumped power...

View attachment 60991
 
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