Space Varmint
New Member
If you put a series resistor in between the switch and pin 14 and put about .1uf to 1uf between the resistor and pin 14 to ground. Cap to ground. That should debounce your circuit.
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...That's what I mean by tying the other high.
I REALLY don't understand what you mean by "tying high" or "tying low". Do you mean connecting something to the + pole or the - pole or something?
And as MikeMI says, I've already tied both clockEnable and reset to ground. But well, as you all know, it doesn't do **** (gently said).
Is it hooked up like this?
That's indeed something I've tried.
EDIT:
Apparently not EXACTLY.
I have made some progress, though still completely useless for my further project
But, if I keep presing the button now, sometimes (totally random), the LED indeeds keeps burning until I press the button again!
So, apparently, now I'm indeed suffering from some terrible bouncing
Thanks so far by the way ^^
SV, the 4017 doesn't read out in binary. It has ten outlets that sequentially light then return to the origin. It's call a LED Chaser in most of the literature.
Your 74x90's 74x47 and 48, and shift registers will read out as you incidate.
Edit: mis-speak: 74x47 and 48 do NOT read out in binary. Slaps forehead!
Decade counter just means 10 output states, it does not imply output coding or format. The 4017 uses decoding to produce a sequential output. The 7490 has 10 states in binary output.
...
But did anyone already take a look at my new scheme, including the debouncer?
No, it's a pulse switch, I assume you know what that is
just 2 contacts, normally open, press the switch and it's closed, release the switch and it returns to the "open" state.
So, 2 terminals.