4017 clock input with a pulse switch.

[Space Varmint]

If you put a series resistor in between the switch and pin 14 and put about .1uf to 1uf between the resistor and pin 14 to ground. Cap to ground. That should debounce your circuit.

 

[Space Varmint]

I think that's what he's trying to do MikeMI. I think he wants to push it what? 9 times before it comes on.

 

[Smonjirez]

Well, I really don't care in which state it powers up. Because in the future, I will have a seperate 555 timer (which I am familiar with) which resets the 4017 chip every 5 seconds. So that doesn't matter.
And what do you mean with "just tie it high"; referring to pin 13?

I haven't tried the exact combination of a resistor between the switch and pin 14 and then a capacitor, positive side between that resistor and pin 14, and the negative side to ground, so I will try that tomorrow. Any directions on which resistor / capacitor to use?

 

[Space Varmint]

Try about 100 ohms with about .1 to 1 uf. But you only need one clock. That's what I mean by tying the other high.

 

[MikeMl]

...That's what I mean by tying the other high.

RTFM!!! ClockEnable and Reset must be tied low!!!

 

[Smonjirez]

I REALLY don't understand what you mean by "tying high" or "tying low". Do you mean connecting something to the + pole or the - pole or something?
And as MikeMI says, I've already tied both clockEnable and reset to ground. But well, as you all know, it doesn't do **** (gently said).

 

[MikeMl]

Is it hooked up like this?

 

[Space Varmint]

I REALLY don't understand what you mean by "tying high" or "tying low". Do you mean connecting something to the + pole or the - pole or something?
And as MikeMI says, I've already tied both clockEnable and reset to ground. But well, as you all know, it doesn't do **** (gently said).

Yeah, "tie high" means run pin 13 to the VCC. See, it is active low and of course transitions from high to low. By keeping it high you are disabling it. Like MikeMI says, there are stray signals around, even the 50 cycle hum from your AC house current could possibly trigger the clock giving false counts. By tying it high you prevent that from happening.

 

[Smonjirez]

Is it hooked up like this?

That's indeed something I've tried.

EDIT:
Apparently not EXACTLY.
I have made some progress, though still completely useless for my further project
But, if I keep presing the button now, sometimes (totally random), the LED indeeds keeps burning until I press the button again!
So, apparently, now I'm indeed suffering from some terrible bouncing

Thanks so far by the way ^^

 

[Space Varmint]

That's indeed something I've tried.

EDIT:
Apparently not EXACTLY.
I have made some progress, though still completely useless for my further project
But, if I keep presing the button now, sometimes (totally random), the LED indeeds keeps burning until I press the button again!
So, apparently, now I'm indeed suffering from some terrible bouncing

Thanks so far by the way ^^

That's exactly what is supposed to happen. Do you understand how that works? It is a decade counter so it counts in BCD (binary coded decimal), meaning it counts in binary but the count rolls over after 9 instead of 15 or F in hex. So your first four bits will count like this each time you push the button. It will count"

0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9..........0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9

Your outputs look like this:

Qd Qc Qb Qa

0 0 0 0 = 0
0 0 0 1 = 1
0 0 1 0 = 2
0 0 1 1 = 3
0 1 0 0 = 4
0 1 0 1 = 5
0 1 1 0 = 6
0 1 1 1 = 7
1 0 0 0 = 8
1 0 0 1 = 9

So every time a "1" occurs, the LED will light. Notice that if you use Qc output for example, that if you push the button 10 times and the switch does not bounce (working correctly) then the LED will be on through 4 times in a row that you push the button. So it is NOT random and you should be able to predict when the light will come on. If it does it differently, then you have a switch bouncing problem. Now if the thing lights up and later turns off again and you have not pushed the button, then you have some sort of electrical noise causing the clock signal to trigger, but this is unlikely as long as you tie off the unused clock input.

 

[AllVol]

SV, the 4017 doesn't read out in binary. It has ten outlets that sequentially light then return to the origin. It's call a LED Chaser in most of the literature.


Your 74x90's 74x47 and 48, and shift registers will read out as you incidate.




Edit: mis-speak: 74x47 and 48 do NOT read out in binary. Slaps forehead!

 

[Smonjirez]

I totally understand how binary counting works. But this is not the case here. I've worked with this chip before (only the clock pulse was supplied by a 555 timer), and every 10 pulses the LED connected to pin 3 just lit up 1 time, since it's output hasn't got anything to do with binary. But I get how the system works internally.

It isn't predictatble in my case, it's just random. It doesn't turn off when it's on (at least, not without me clicking the switch), so it's indeed bouncing.
I've followed some websites:
**broken link removed**
https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2010/02/HEF4093B.pdf

So now I've created a new electrical scheme:
With this scheme, the counter should just advance to the next output when clicking the switch, and after output 9 returning to output 0 and start over again, right? Have I also fixed the bouncing problem with this scheme?

 

[Space Varmint]

SV, the 4017 doesn't read out in binary. It has ten outlets that sequentially light then return to the origin. It's call a LED Chaser in most of the literature.


Your 74x90's 74x47 and 48, and shift registers will read out as you incidate.





Edit: mis-speak: 74x47 and 48 do NOT read out in binary. Slaps forehead!

Huh! Did not read data sheet in depth. I just assumed it was what it said it was. A decade counter. A decade counter is not a chaser. And a shift register does not read out like I said. A shift register simply moves the current data from one bit to the next. So if I feed it a "1" then turn off the input and clock it. It will do what you call a chaser. The "1" will shift a bit position everytime it is clocked.

 

[Mikebits]

Decade counter just means 10 output states, it does not imply output coding or format. The 4017 uses decoding to produce a sequential output. The 7490 has 10 states in binary output.

 

[Space Varmint]

Decade counter just means 10 output states, it does not imply output coding or format. The 4017 uses decoding to produce a sequential output. The 7490 has 10 states in binary output.

What? Decade counter means it counts in BCD from 0 to 9.

 

[Space Varmint]

OK, I just went back and looked a data sheet and there was no truth table but they had a timing diagram. It looks as if your right on this one Mikey. I guess each output represents the count it is at but that is the first decade counter I have ever seen that did not count in BCD. What a screwy chip. Generally, when a chip is refered to as a decade counter it counts in BCD. In fact you can make a decade counter from an ordinary binary counter by using an AND gate and tying the inputs to Qd and Qb and the output back to reset. So when the counter reaches 10 which is binary 1010 the 1 will give a 1 output to reset the chip back to zero. That is a decade counter. I really think they have miss used the term for this chip.

edit*

In fact. From the way the timing diagram looks I would have to call that a shift register. Who made this chip? What goof balls.

 

[Smonjirez]

Ok well perhaps the manufacturers were a bit careless about naming the chip, but it's still just a fine working chip (excellent for making knight-rider lights etc. )
But did anyone already take a look at my new scheme, including the debouncer?

 

[MikeMl]

...
But did anyone already take a look at my new scheme, including the debouncer?

Do you have a push-button switch with Common, NormallyOpen, NormallyClosed (three terminals)?

 

[Smonjirez]

No, it's a pulse switch, I assume you know what that is
just 2 contacts, normally open, press the switch and it's closed, release the switch and it returns to the "open" state.
So, 2 terminals.

 

[MikeMl]

No, it's a pulse switch, I assume you know what that is
just 2 contacts, normally open, press the switch and it's closed, release the switch and it returns to the "open" state.
So, 2 terminals.

Ok, let me rephrase it: GO GET a momentary pushbutton that has C,NO,NC and I will show you how to make a debounced switch. The one you posted doesn't solve the bounces.