Adding a ring light to a 1981 Draper Tools PD-16 'Drilling Machine' 1981 Mascot Tools (Floor Standing Pillar Drill)

[TheJay]

Hey everyone, I have a very old pillar drill press from 1981 (Draper). It has a green on and red off button on the side. I wondered how I can take power from the drill press when the green/black button is pressed and turn it off when the red button is pressed?

Even better, how could I connect a three way switch so that I can turn it on and off manually, as well as having a position for automatic.

 

[TheJay]

Is anyone able to help with this?

 

[JimB]

This one is 11.5cm ID 12.3cm. The tang would need to be the same dimensions as the one you made. Would you mind helping me with this? Thanks.

If you mean "Can I machine another one please?" Sorry but I am not in a position to do any machining at the moment.

Can you:
1 Mark out the shape on a sheet of aluminium.
2 Chain-drill the outline and circular cut-out, using your pillar drill.
3 Use hand tools (files etc) to give a smooth shape to the chain-drilled surfaces.
4 Assemble the light and supports as appropriate using local materials.

JimB

 

[rjenkinsgb]

For the machine start/stop, look for a "no volt release" switch on ebay. There are various styles, either surface mounted or through panel.
A couple of styles:

Workshop NVR (No Volt Release) Safety Switch & Emergency Stop 220/240v DP | eBay

( NVR = No Volt Release ). Fixing holes and cable entry knock-outs.

www.ebay.co.uk

For Workshop Machines 250V KJD17F IP54 5-Pin Start/Stop No Volt Release Switch | eBay

1 pc KJD17F NVR Switch. Protection level: IP54. Small 5-pin NVR switch for induction motors or brush motors. Dust Cover and Rear Seal. Once we know you have not received your item we will investigate the matter fully both internally and with our carriers.

www.ebay.co.uk

Add a separate (AC power rated) light switch, either a simple on-off and taking power from the motor side connector, or a three way selector switch, with centre off, one way taking power from the motor side and the other way taking power before the motor switch.
eg.

LW26/SZW26-20 3 Position Rotary Selector Rotary Cam Changeover Switch 8Terminals | eBay

SZW26/LW26-20/D202.2BF 20A 2 Phase Universal Rotary Changeover Cam Switch. 1PCS Changeover Switch. 3 Position (1-0-2). Position 1 : 1-2, 5-6.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[TheJay]

Thanks for your replies.

I've ordered the first NVR you linked. Thinking of mounting it facing forward on the left side of the machine like this:

Would this work as a three way switch? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254230122628

Can't use the drill at the moment, it's in parts whilst I work on it:

What was the thickness of aluminium you used?

I want to tidy it up, is there a way to reduce the size of the stuff that goes from mains to the motor/switch? What's this part called/do they make them smaller now?

 

[rjenkinsgb]

That's a motor overload thermal trip and a power contactor. The start-stop switch assembly effectively replaces the contactor - but that has no motor protection.

A motor rated thermal-magnetic double pole circuit breaker should be suitable protection for the motor.

This is an example of that type; it has a similar adjustment range to the original, which appears to be set at approximately 3A. Note that motor protection types are not the same as general MCBs used in distribution boards etc.

Motor Protection Circuit Breaker, 2-pole, 2.5-4.0A - Online Shop - Schrack Technik International

Motor Protection Circuit Breaker, 2-pole, 2.5-4.0A

www.schrack.com

They have a slow reaction to minor overloads, but very fast reaction to high current overloads.

It could be connected at the machine, or at the wall plug end, depending on which is most convenient.

 

[TheJay]

Thanks, that's really good to know. How are those mounted/are there small enclosures available/ways to make IP65 compatible?

In terms of wiring, would the idea be to go to a trip, then the NVR and from there the motor and LED light/three way switch? What would be the best gauge of cable for everything after the mains cable?

 

[rjenkinsgb]

It should fit a two module enclosure - eg. search for RCD enclosures that are two modules wide.
eg.

177071 MINI-2-T | Eaton Eaton xComfort Series White Plastic Junction Box, IP30, 83 x 53 x 140mm | RS

uk.rs-online.com

The order depends of what's most convenient - it could go on the wall, or on the machine.
I'd use 1mm or 1.5mm^2 cable, or just more of the mains flex split out where needed.

 

[TheJay]

Thanks for your reply. Does that mean 1.5mm twin cable?

That source is for companies only, I am unable to order from there. Unless someone is able to order for me and I reimburse you? Do the company also provide an enclosure for this specific Motor Protection Circuit Breaker?

Would this be sufficient? It's actually quite hard to find something similar elsewhere. This looks like it's probably larger and it's 3P rather than 2P?

Pardon our interruption...

 

[rjenkinsgb]

Yes, that would be fine (the 2.5 - 4A one).

Loop one wire out & back to the third input then out of that third way, so all sections are passing the same current; they monitor imbalance between the phases so leaving one out will cause a trip.

 

[shokjok]

For safety reasons, you should also include a floor-mounted kill switch for the drill in case of injury by the work or you fall down during work and no one can hear your calls for help with a running drill.
I worked on a senior's home project last year having pull cords attached to the emergency call buttons, that reach down to the floor.

 

[TheJay]

I wanted a discreet foot kill switch but it looks like the options are expensive.

Thanks rjenkins, I am waiting for bits to arrive and then will take a look/come back with a photo of the components so a diagram can be added.

 

[TheJay]

Everything has arrived. Including 1.5mm twin and earth cable.

Could you please explain how this is wired up by adding coloured lines to the images? The original switch had ON / OFF. This one appears to have contacts on the ON / OFF and the emergency off button. This suggests the cable from the socket is connected to this switch first whereas the original wiring goes to the big block and from there splits off to the switch and motor originally.

Is there anything I need to keep in mind with this or is it a straight forward copy the existing and transfer across?

We'll get to the ring light wiring after this is done.

 

[TheJay]

Anyone?

 

[ronsimpson]

I can't find a picture of what I have on the drill and mill. It looks like this but smaller light. Powered by a USB phone charger. Very strong magnet. I have 2 to 3 lights on each machine. I found them in China for $6usd. I could not find a way to make a ring light attach.

 

[rjenkinsgb]

Could you please explain how this is wired up by adding coloured lines to the images?

It should be as the drawing on the slip of paper, for the stop and on/off switch.

For the circuit breaker, connect power in to eg. L1 and L2, take the output from T1 and T3, and add a wire from T2 back to L3.

Connect the earth through and to the machine frame.

 

[TheJay]

Thanks, I will get to looking at the wiring soon no doubt. In the meantime, I found some pretty thick metal. I think it's steel, it's magnetic. I don't know how to tell though.

 

[Tony Stewart]

I just read this thread and had to read over a few times to see what you need.
So I simulated it with interactive switches you can click on. The light switch will use less than 1A so no need for 10A switches unless you prefer them. I chose double pole switches and must be rated for your AC voltage.

- Old switch was 3 phase + Neutral but only needed 2 of 4 switches.
- New one is 3 phase and still only need 2 of 3 poles for single phase motor.
- I added the light switch for Auto or Manual.

- Press any s2 (new) or DPDT for light.

Run here >https://tinyurl.com/2tr3aptt

Just imagine the mechanics is Start/Stop with emergency stop, but this is the simplest electrical logic diagram.

Foot switch needs the same current rating and 16A switch in series with motor blue/brn BUT IT IS ONLY A 2P1T SWITCH

 

[TheJay]

Thank you very much for your reply. I will need some time to look at that properly.

In the mean time, I have made a holder for the LED light. What paint do you use to cover bare metal on steel? I want to stop it rusting and make it blue.

 

[TheJay]

It should be as the drawing on the slip of paper, for the stop and on/off switch.

For the circuit breaker, connect power in to eg. L1 and L2, take the output from T1 and T3, and add a wire from T2 back to L3.

Connect the earth through and to the machine frame.

Like this?

 

[rjenkinsgb]

Like this?

That looks good! Just be sure to use properly crimped (or soldered) terminals for the "blade" connectors on the switch; don't try to solder to them, the switch body would probably melt.