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Hero999 said:Heck, I use photo resist board for real PCBs, it doesn't work out that expensive, it's probably cheaper than Press-n-Peel.
It's easy to build a UV exposure, the cheapest way is to lay your board with the artwork on top on a table held down with a peice of glass. Use compact black light for the UV source, the easiest way is to put it in an old desk lamp and direct the beam at your PCB.
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I know there are probably cheaper places to buy these from and don't use the incandesant type they're crap and don't last for very long.
Look, here are some cheaper alternatives:
http://www.blacklight.com/items/FTBPESL13T-BLB
http://www.bulbman.com/index.php?main_page=product_bulb_info&cPath=4351_8839&products_id=11675 - needs a holder with ballast though.
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Having tried many methods over the years, including printing onto magazine pages,photo-resist etc. and I would say Press-n-Peel is one on the best I have found. It is quick, easy and fast and I have had spectacular results for my SMD work and double sided boards, with achievable edge definition and fine track widths far better than using paper. I use laser labels to stick correctly sized pieces of P-n-P to normal A4 sheets and have not had a 'jam' on my laser printer yet. As for cost, a 20 sheet pack shipped to Sheffield UK from Techniks in the USA is US$64.50 or about £33.00 which compared to Maplin where you get 5 sheets for £15.52 which is almost twice the price at £3.10 per sheet ! and you have to collect.
Can i used the one that is used as wound disinfectant?
Pulsar transfer paper is very good but it may be hard to find outside the US.
Sounds great, I don't know if it is available here in Australia, or what the price is though.
Asynchronous dual clock operation, allowing the
USB module to run from a high-frequency
oscillator while the rest of the microcontroller is
clocked from an internal low-power oscillator.
Always Add Acid To Water --- Not Water To Acid
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A good way to remember this is use the alphabet...A to W not W to A...
The explanation is simple..if you have a high concetration Acid (let's say sulphuric acid 10 mole) which would eat through any type of metal, if you would slowly dump the acid into water, the reaction can be controlled by the pouring of the acid into the water.
Let's say you dump the water into acid, then you would have a little bit of water reacting with a large amount of acid as the pouring process starts.
This is very dangerous because of the large amount of concentration of acid is going to react with every molecule of the water, giving off much heat.
I am no scientist but this was 8th grade bio-chem, which is basic reaction control.
Use this rule for adding acid into pretty much anything, espcially water.
-Jim
I like your cheep etching solution.
Press-n-Peel is a waste of money, I just use ordinary magazine paper. Just print your circuit onto it, iron to a clean piece of copper clad board and wast it off with water.