Could I add 200 rpm to module signal?

So you cant just get the controller reprogrammed for the right RPM?
That seems like a very limited design to me. Perhaps it why I have not seen any in actual use so far.

Is the engine carburated or fuel injected?

tcmtech said:

So you cant just get the controller reprogrammed for the right RPM?
That seems like a very limited design to me. Perhaps it why I have not seen any in actual use so far.

Is the engine carburated or fuel injected?

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Engine has 1 barrel carburator.It is a 4 cyl.Ford Indust. 142 cid 63 HP LSG4231.My 20Kw Gen. head requires 40 HP min. I have been using the 540 RPM PTO off my 1958 Oliver 550 and gear boxed it up to 1800.It worked but,I am not getting any younger and realized once we got about 1 inch of ice and I could see me skating on that trying to drive tractor around this step hill to hook up to the gear box shaft I had mounted in the side of woodshed.Next the old Gov. was was to slow and also just had way to many parts moving.Also, I want to convert it to LP/dual fuel and run off the 500 Gal. LP house tank. You know how gas starts to degrade quickly for something used so infrequently.I can post some pics of the setup later for interested parties.I have the head grounded to 7 Ft ground rod,Manual transfer switch and lines buried and sealed in 2" plastic pipe to house. It seems in today's world when you contact company and ask this all they say is "we can sell you one that will work for $$$". I don't write code and also sure they could design a control that would work for all popular rpm settings but that way they could not say "we can sell you the right one for $$$" I am sure they would say sure we could re-program this box for $$$ or, sell you one already done for the same price Its not really the $$$ but the enjoyment of making it yourself and learning as you go.I weld,do my own vehicle repairs,paint,plumb,carpet,house wiring,drywall and just put a new 350 V8 in our cabin cruiser this spring.When you raise three boys on one in-come it's gonna give somewhere I am from the era, if you can't make it yourself then buy it. Then only go to the automotive stealership when all else has failed.All I can do is pass or fail right? Thanks for all the post on this subject it is very good reading.BTW I also posted the PDF and better schematics.

mneary said:

Attached is a tested schematic of the 10/9 (1.1111...) multiplier. I/O may require buffering, depending on the signals to be interfaced.

Click to expand...

Nice schematic!
I got the specs for the 4017 4046 IC's and am wondering if the non-used pins should go to ground or just left open? Also in the lower right I don't understand IC1P-IC3P. Also where would the pot or trim go in this circuit if any at all? All else I am clear on. Thanks

TCMTECH got me wondering again. Is the approach I am using here the shortest distance between two points or would it be more simple to junk the control and just make a circuit that does the 1800 RPM governor setting with an adjustable gain or pot to control this actuator/servo? Just brainstorming here.Thanks

Just a personal opinion from someone who has worked around a good deal of stationary industrial engines used for generators, water, and hydraulic pump power sources.
You may be well ahead of the game to just toss the electronic system on eBay and get what you can get for it and then use the money to buy a standard issue belt drive mechanical governor and make the right brackets and linkages to attach it to the engine.
A good used universal governor only costs around $25 - $50 if you know where to look.
Maybe less if you dont mind doing a bit of junk yarding at the nearest farm equipment salvage business. Old combines and swather's and many industrial machines are full of industrial engines that have the external belt driven governor systems on them.

I picked several off of scrapped industrial machines at the local salvage yard for a $5 each a few years ago, cleaned them up and sold them for $40 each!
Granted the one you may find may be set for a different RPM range and sensitivity than what you may need but they have adjustments on them for setting those requirements.

Its just one option I would pursue myself being I know where to get them cheap!

Thanks Tcmtech for the advise.If this does not work out I will pursue that idea.I am having fun with this and learning much so far.I am going to build this circuit and see how it works out. Actually I will start my search now for these items because it sounds interesting.This generator system already ran the house for 3 days off tractor and I have had no problems with it yet.I ran the big Sat. dish,computers and the central air even fired up okay. I am monitoring it with a kill-a-watt meter and just double what I read on gauge. I built a dedicated instrument panel complete with start key and hooked up the engine alarm system in case I loose oil pressure or engine over heats.The radiator is mounted in the rear(screened) wall of shed facing wooded area with a pop up door.I removed the steel engine fan replacing it with 12V rad. mounted fan.Reasons being noise reduction,more horse power and no fan danger while working around it plus elimination of having to align engine up close to rad. this allows more room for repair of water pump etc.Again thanks everyone's help.

Now I feel silly 16's in lower right of schematic are the supply voltages to the IC chips.What was I thinking

Yoda439 said:

Nice schematic!
I got the specs for the 4017 4046 IC's and am wondering if the non-used pins should go to ground or just left open? Also in the lower right I don't understand IC1P-IC3P. Also where would the pot or trim go in this circuit if any at all? All else I am clear on. Thanks

Click to expand...

All but one of the unused pins are outputs and are left open. IC3 pin 12 is an input but also should be left open.

My prototype locks from 20Hz to 120Hz without adjustment. If it overshoots on big load changes, reduce C5.

Thanks Mneary I am placing order from Jameco today and have the Nightfire cap.kit on the way. I was thinking of using coax to run from the control module for shielding purposes. You know there are teachers and instructors and it is rare to find one who is actually both and I think you are it.This is the type of person you learn the most from and that's what is important. Just wanted to say thanks for being patient to a newbie with such elementary thinking processes and questions.I was taking a flight check ride with this FAA flight examiner once and he said." You know if I take away a pilot's system from them on a check ride they will bomb the landing/procedure everytime. So if you don't understand why someone is unable to grasp a theory or skill as fast as you think they should it means you forgot what it felt like when you were learning.If you are right handed the rest of the day write with your left hand and that should bring back the memory of just learning That was back in 1979 and I never forgot what he said because it is so true.I will stay up to date on this project and post here.Thanks to all of you.