First PCB??

Why the jumpers=not needed

the jumper from R4 to R3 = not needed
Jumper at R1 = can reroute so not needed.
When ever possible I avoid jumpers.
do you have a schematic. I enjoy doing pcb design.
be more than happy to try my hand at your board

It looks nice, you can show cutouts with the white outline layer. Make it zero width

mneary said:

If this is your first toner board, might stick with 0.5 (you're keeping my calculator warm ;-).

Click to expand...

LOL Thanks. I thought it was conservative too. I made one of these allready and I thought I did a pretty good job for the first one. There was two boards though and I wanted to be able to make one board instead. Trouble I was running into is the size the board has to be. I can't make it bigger

MrDEB said:

I enjoy doing pcb design.
be more than happy to try my hand at your board

Click to expand...

I do not have a schematic. I just made the board. The whole left side and topside ( LED ) footprints can't be moved they have to stay there. I am not using LED's just put them there for the connections I will be using off them. If you still would like to try to do it I will send the spint file to you. Let me know. I would love not to have to use jumpers, that would be great. Remember: I can't have the board any bigger. I wish I could have a little breathing room on the edges. Seems to me (by reading pcb posts on here ) I might run into some problems with edges, but there is nothing that I can do about it. The bottom right is where the power will be. Negative is the top and positive on the bottom. Let me know?

MrDEB said:

the jumper from R4 to R3 = not needed
Jumper at R1 = can reroute so not needed.
When ever possible I avoid jumpers.

Click to expand...

Ok hopefully I can explain this without sounding idiotic. The diode above the 7660 connects to the 8pin on LM358 and also to R3. Also, the capacitor (neg)in the middle right side of board connects to R4. All those pads that are connected to those circuits mentioned are there for my jumpers. There are really 3 jumpers totall. If you can change that, that would be great. Sorry for any confusion. R4 and R3 don't need a jumper. I can see re-routing R1 by putting it between LM358 and R2, that would make things a little clearer..but i don't see that helping where the jumper needs to go. But I don't know? Leave that to you if you care to tackle it? Let me know.


Thanks 'blue' will do!

What size is the board?

I am using a different program so I do not know what size the board desired is??

can you post a pic w/ ALL jumpers?

I am kinda following what your saying but want to make sure.

HOW did you make PCboard w/o schematic??

here is the general layout but have no idea where you want jumpers (connections)
the schematic is laidout similar to your board layout.
just need clarification on jumper connections and the 3 terminal on the left?? that R7 is connected to.
What is with D1 and D2??

MrDEB said:

here is the general layout but have no idea where you want jumpers (connections)
the schematic is laidout similar to your board layout.
just need clarification on jumper connections and the 3 terminal on the left?? that R7 is connected to.
What is with D1 and D2??

Click to expand...

On your schematic....the diode above Pin3 of 7660 on the 'line' (cathode?) side needs to connect to pin 8 of LM358 and also to R3 (side diode is connected to)

The diode you have between P2 and P4 of LM358 needs to be grounded cathode side (it's not on any I posted so it's not your fault , but it's supposed to be)

Your big question mark on the right: That connects to R4

Your question about D1 and D2 I can't answer. I just know that it is the right way to set them, and it works! They cause the light to flicker (showing it's working) until pluged into 3mm jack, then the light is disabled to save on battery, but when battery becomes weak the light come on dim showing time to change battery. It is, what it is. LOL It works but I don't know why.

The two LED's at the bottom left are actually representing a linear pot. It has 5 terminals I only need 4. Next is the R7 which connects to a jack that has 3 terminals.

Every program, and I have most of them, the connectors and the linear pot that I needed were either extremely huge or not the right pins, so I just used two LEDs for my linear pot and a header with 3 pads for my jack.

The Picture should explain pretty good check it out!

Move C1 left next to the LM358

Why the long trace that connects R3 with the LM358 flip it horizontal and attach to the trace that is right next to it
or
Take the trace going around R4/R6 underneath R4/R6, then no need for the link wire
Modified the image with second option since it was easier, first option still preferred

There is a lot of wasted space on the board
Capacitor polarity is all over the place same with the diodes, going to make it a pain to stuff the board if you don't have a silkscreen.

NEED more info

pin out of 5 pin pot
pin out of jacks - I put 2 different ones but I assume the jacks are mounted off board?
be nice to know what the component lead spacing is?
board size in metric or inches
all other changes are on revised schematic.
going fishing today so won't get back to this until later this afternoon.
its 5:30 am in Idaho right now

MrDEB said:

pin out of 5 pin pot
pin out of jacks - I put 2 different ones but I assume the jacks are mounted off board?
be nice to know what the component lead spacing is?
board size in metric or inches
all other changes are on revised schematic.
going fishing today so won't get back to this until later this afternoon.
its 5:30 am in Idaho right now

Click to expand...

Board is Width 64 mm, height 58 mm

Attachment should answer most of your questions

If not, don't worry about it. I know it's unorthodox but trying the best I can.

I wouldn't stress over it....it's my mess not yours!

bienafv said:

Move C1 left next to the LM358

Why the long trace that connects R3 with the LM358 flip it horizontal and attach to the trace that is right next to it
or
Take the trace going around R4/R6 underneath R4/R6, then no need for the link wire
Modified the image with second option since it was easier, first option still preferred

There is a lot of wasted space on the board
Capacitor polarity is all over the place same with the diodes, going to make it a pain to stuff the board if you don't have a silkscreen.

View attachment 31030

Click to expand...

Talk to the Autorouter.....why do you think I'm asking for help!

Autorouter!!

thats what made the mess in the first place

progress

board is 54 x 56
add perimeter boundary of 5mm - ?

MrDEB said:

board is 54 x 56
add perimeter boundary of 5mm - ?

Click to expand...

From the left to right which is width, I can swing 56mm + 5mm

And from bottom to top which is height, I can swing 54mm + 5mm

The height cannot be any more than 59 mm total... The height is extremely critical 58 mm would be better

The Width I can have a little more play because in my board i was able to cut down the corners at 45 degree angles giving me some wiggle room.

want me to just leave at 64x58?

center the traces and you can chop away?
If you want an exact size then let me know.
height or width = I can just rotate the entire trace layout.
I plan on cleaning up the design as nothing is in-line. I found putting your pads in-line then just use a fence on the drill press and start drilling with less guess work.
Also drill after etching then you have a small pocket that helps align the bit.

here is a maybe finale design

I assume the pot, jacks are off board?
the JP# are jumper connections from off board items like pot, jacks, power wires etc. (did the pot wires in yellow.
the lead spacing I hope is correct. looked up similar on Mouser site.
using expresspcb. if you want the files let me know

MrDEB said:

I assume the pot, jacks are off board?
the JP# are jumper connections from off board items like pot, jacks, power wires etc. (did the pot wires in yellow.
the lead spacing I hope is correct. looked up similar on Mouser site.
using expresspcb. if you want the files let me know

Click to expand...

If you could keep the dim. of the board the same as I had them, that would be great. Remember that when you set the board circuits, you have to keep the circuits on the left of my original design in order and the ones on the top in order in those places. You are correct, the pot, jacks are going to be off board, just need the pads to place wires.

You inspired me to try (just for the learning process) and see if I could get rid of the jumpers myself, and the sample below is as far as I could get. I still have one jumper. Boo hoo. I don't think it looks as nice as the other one did but it does get rid of the jumpers except one. Maybe you have a suggestion how to get rid of the last one? Take a look.

Your layout looks better

what size are your traces?
If you have capabilities of doing a filled plane then your etching will take less time but use more laser ink.
have your printer set for the highest dpi or density.
I made some corrections like avoiding too many squggily traces and avoid right angle traces. Also have no jumpers.
I made corrections using a photo prg (what pcb layout prg are you using?
make sure that the image prints correctly-mirror as your transfering image onto underside thus a mirror image.
double check your printed circuit against the schematic (some prgs have a schematic inport so you can automatically check connections.
expresspcb has this feature.
I should have done corrections in a different color.

one thing I missed

you have no part designations like C1 or R6 or ??
you could be headed for failure without them or a way to check against a schematic.

MrDEB said:

what size are your traces?
If you have capabilities of doing a filled plane then your etching will take less time but use more laser ink.
have your printer set for the highest dpi or density.
I made some corrections like avoiding too many squggily traces and avoid right angle traces. Also have no jumpers.
I made corrections using a photo prg (what pcb layout prg are you using?
make sure that the image prints correctly-mirror as your transfering image onto underside thus a mirror image.
double check your printed circuit against the schematic (some prgs have a schematic inport so you can automatically check connections.
expresspcb has this feature.
I should have done corrections in a different color.

Click to expand...

Traces are 0.6

I will use the filled plane becuase the board will last longer.

Thanks for the heads up on the dpi settings. I don't have a printer....any suggestions what is a good printer...(hopefully not hundereds of dollars) that will give me really good quality pcb's. I will be buying one very soon, but I don't want to spend a lot for bells and whistles that I won't use. I am buying specifically for pcb only and willing to spend what has to be spent. The inkjet I have is for all other uses.

Lol I ddin't know if I could put that last jumper from the header on P5, I thought it might be different becasue I was dealing with the IC chip (I/O) which I don't entirely understand. Too funny. Live and learn

I am using Sprint, I think when I go to the print section..it automatically does that. But thanks for the heads up...I will make sure before I use the laser printer to print the traces.

Sprint has a tester......I have tested so many times it's not even funny.

I am not sure how to connect those traces. What angle should I intercept at?

What do you mean part designators? Do you mean I don't have everything labeled? I was told that labels will cause short circuits in the print out so I got rid of them. I have all the parts labeled in another pic for reference. Is that what your concern is?

Woo Hoo getting closer!
Mark