briguy280z
New Member
Excellent it finally works!
Ok I replaced the 1k0 with a 3k3 but still very little change. So i replaced
it with a 5k6 for some reason this worked fine. Worked the way it was
designed.
I tore open the guage to see how it works. I consists of two bi-metal
springs and when heated they bend according to how much heat.
One bi-metal moves the neatle from empty to full. The other breaks
contacts between power and unit line (current line). I believe the second
one is put in so that there is a fail safe. PULSING is caused by this bi-
metal breaking contacts. It was very hard to find the true current draw
with this pulsing going on. Otherwise I changed R5 to 5k6 which gave
control of the circuit. The everything else worked perfict i still have to
adjust 0 point but that was planned.
I got to make a Electro Tech sticker so i can advertise when the car is
completely finished.
Thanks for all your help i will keep intouch if any other problems come
up.
Briguy280z
Ok I replaced the 1k0 with a 3k3 but still very little change. So i replaced
it with a 5k6 for some reason this worked fine. Worked the way it was
designed.
I tore open the guage to see how it works. I consists of two bi-metal
springs and when heated they bend according to how much heat.
One bi-metal moves the neatle from empty to full. The other breaks
contacts between power and unit line (current line). I believe the second
one is put in so that there is a fail safe. PULSING is caused by this bi-
metal breaking contacts. It was very hard to find the true current draw
with this pulsing going on. Otherwise I changed R5 to 5k6 which gave
control of the circuit. The everything else worked perfict i still have to
adjust 0 point but that was planned.
I got to make a Electro Tech sticker so i can advertise when the car is
completely finished.
Thanks for all your help i will keep intouch if any other problems come
up.
Briguy280z