PCB making 101
There are two techniques used for the hobbyest and the latter seems to be doing better. 1) UV exposure and 2) Toner Transfer
Both require "artwork" from a PCB layout program.
I've done #1 using the sun and pre-sensitized boards and using professional photolithography equipment and coating, baking and exposing the boards. Resist as it's called can be negative or positive/.
You expose and develop the boards (assuming pre-sensitized) and etch with one of three systems: 1) Ferric Chloride; 2) Ammonium Persulfate or 3) A mix of Hydrogen Peroxide and Hydrochloric acid. #3 can be regenerated with an air bubbler. I've done #1 and #2.
I liked polyester paper when I made the exposeure mask and instead of a vacuum frame, I used a drop of water.
2) Toner transfer is you print the toner on paper that might release it easy. Some commercial papers, some photopapers and glossy magazine pages are used. An iron or a modified laminator (the preferred method) to transfer the toner from the paper to the board.
Drilling is tedious. A press with carbide bits is recommended.
I've done a re-flow solder thing using a frying pan and peanut oil. Alternatively there are tin plating solutions which I don't like.
Or, you can send them away to be made. No components are usually installed. A fried likes this service:
http://imall.iteadstudio.com/open-pcb/pcb-prototyping.html Just to give you an idea on prices.
Yea, another learning curve. One, that I also need to deal with. Some PCB making programs are free, but most free ones are limited in capabilities. KiCAD is an Open Source totally free program.