Hi just after a little help

Status
Not open for further replies.
Im gonna pick up a breadboard tomorrow and try with that it just looked confusing thought would be easier with the board i used

Can the grounds and 0v be put together and not contacted to nothing else

Can all points of contact on the same line ie 1 side of A switch one side resistor and d's power and the + all be in one joint

Can i use the one side of signal wire as the power and the second go to output

And where do the Decoupling capacitors go

Thanks again for your help and patience im pretty sure you've guessed ive never done something like this im learning alot in a short time but well and truly in the deep end
 
Hi Stuart, There is nothing wrong with the type of contruction that you used - it is better than a breadboard type of construction. (I have not tried to check that your board is wired correctly by converting it back into a circuit diagram (Schematic.) Decoupling capacitors go between the supply rails and should be as close as possible to the power pins of the ICs (0 volts and +5 volts in this case.) (In situations with fast switching speeds you may need to put a decoupling capacitor close to each IC.) In this case ground and 0 volts is the same thing. (There are situations where this may not be the case.) This is the circuit as as I built it. (After adding the capacitor to de bounce switch "A")


Les
 
Hi Les, in your circuit you didn't include the power supply pins for the two chips, so the OP didn't include them too into his circuit.

So both chips are un-powered. That's why it wouldn't work.

See the edit pcb attached.



The bottom view is rotated and mirrored so the orientation is correct.

Allen
 
Hi Allen (absf),
Thanks for spotting that. I did not attempt to check that the board layout matched the circuit diagram. I will have to remember in future when trying to help new members not to assume anything about their level of knowledge. Considering how new Stuart must be to electronics he has done well to build the circuit at all as I did not put any pin numbers on the original circuit. I was glad I built the circuit to confirm that it would work as I had overlooked the effect of switch bounce in the situation I described in post #20 I still need to add a few components to ensure the circuit powers on with the flipflop in the reset state. The circuit I built seems to power up consistently with the flipflop in the set state. I can see no reason for this I thought it would be random.

Les.
 
Thanks keep looking at those pins thinking i should google wot there for so pin 7 on 4013 needs to go to +5 and 14&7 on the 4012 to +5 and not using the other side of the 4013 so doesn't need power you've added a 1k resistors and diode do i need to know v im running for the diode and wots the arrow for next to it and im going to maplin to pick these up should i grab anything else
 
Just got the difference of vss and vdd one being ground supple and other +
 
Last edited:
Hi Stuart,
The diode with tha arrow is the symbol for an LED. I assume this is the way you connected an LED to see if the output was on or off. The supply does not have to be 5 volts. It should work an anything from about 4 to 14 volts. DO NOT exceed 15 volts. Pin 7 on both ICs goes to 0 volts (Ground) and pin 14 on both ICs goes to the +5 (Or whatever voltage supply you chose to use.) Remember to connect a decoupling capacitor (100 nF) between 0 volts and the + supply.

Les.
 
Do i need to put caps between +5 and pin 14 and where do the 10uf go
Thanks
Stuart
 
Stuart,
Re read post #27 You will see that +5 amd pin 14 is the same point. And I reminded you to put in the decoupling capacitors. Do not bother with the 10 uF capacitors at the moment. They may be needed if the same power supply is feeding the logic and the motor but I think you are only driving the LED at the moment. I still do not know how you have it all connected as you have not yet posted the full circuit diagram as requested in post #18 You need to include how you are powering the circuit I designed and what else it is connected to.
 
I've done it again with a 9v just trying to power led ive done it as close to your diagram as poss
 
Ive just changed it so ive got caps between 0v and 7pins and +5 to pins14 cap closer to ic pins i think this has got me alot closer as almost works well closer than anything else

A lights led and if you press B it dims it but comes stright back on

And if you start pressing B it lights only when A is pressed but its dim like above

But the 4013 is getting very hot
 
Last edited:
Hi Harv,
I've just checked that your board is wired as in the circuit and it looks OK. What I did notice is that both micro switches have the wires to the same connections. My understanding was that switch A is normally open (Contacts make when pressed.) and that switch B was normally closed. (Contacts break when pressed.) (This was from how I had interpreted post #1) After re reading post #1 I think you may mean that when switch B is pressed that the output of the circuit goes low. Can you wire switch B as normally closed to try if that works. (If you need switch B to be normally open then it only requires a small change to the circuit.) I have just read the edit to your post #31. Neither IC should get warm. I have just measured the current taken by my circuit wit a 9 volt supply. (Which I assume you are using from the PP3 battery in the picture.) With the LED out then it draws 2.2 mA ).9 mA of thet will be by the 10K resistor connected to switch B so the total taken by the ICs is 1.3 mA That will be 9 x 1.3 mW = 11.7 mW This should not cause any noticeable heating in the ICs.

Les.
 
So do i need caps between pins 7 and 0v and pins 14 to 5v

So when A is pressed the circuit makes and B brakes it from a quick press and release and needs to stay broken until A is released and pressed again almost like B is a circuit breaker in first instance but

In the second instance B will be pressed and held and A makes circuit and breaks on release i cant see any reason B needs to be in no or nc so wor ever works best
 
Last edited:
Hi Harv,
You have already have a capacitor between 0 volts and +9 volts. (The left hand capacitor in your picture of the top of the board in post #30) Where it is physically located should be OK for this circuit.
Are the results in post #33 with Switch B connected as normally open or normally closed ?
The circuit will equally well with the switch wired either way. To use it as a normally open switch you would swap over the positions of the switch and resistor. So the switch would go between the reset pin of the 4013 and the positive rail and the resistor would go from the reset pin of the 4013 and 0 volts.

Les
 
Hi Harv,
I think I have just spotted an error on your board. I think you have pins 11 & 12 of the 4012 connected to pin 1 of the 4013 instead of pin 1 on the 4012.
Les.
 
How ive got it in pics the light stayed on and sence then ive added cap between pins and power rails I'll redo it again as above but with switch wired nc and give results
 
Les Jones said:
Hi Harv,
I think I have just spotted an error on your board. I think you have pins 11 & 12 of the 4012 connected to pin 1 of the 4013 instead of pin 1 on the 4012.
Les.
Click to expand...

Yep thanks how the hell did i do that ill try again
 
It works!!! and the problem of the cam stopping pressing B is not a problem as just means a double shot which it somtimes does anyway just need to try it in gun now
Thanks again les
 
It works controlling led but when but when put on the control unit/mosfet the control unit see it as circuit made ie led lights up on control unit ive tried it many ways wired up but think right ways is the two sides of old switch to the +5 and other to output and ground to battery negative could it going low still be enough for control unit to see circuit made but not enought to light led
 
Hi Harv,
Can you post the schematic (Circuit diagram.) (NOT just a picture of the components and wiring.) of how the gun was wired originaly. Also post the schematic of the mosfet contol board including the part numbers of the components so I know what the drive requirements are. Then can you post the schematic how you connected your board up to the gun. You have not given enough information in post #39. (It would be like me telling you to build the board by connecting a CD4013 to a CD4012 and a few resistors and capacitors with no other information.)

Les.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

D
  • Question
A solenid latch to contract and release a door after a set amount of time, that is being pulled by a spring to open it.
2
Replies
26
Views
4K
danadak
O
  • Question
Help finding a replacement relay for sealer
Replies
12
Views
1K
Diver300
D
R
My little hack project with GENEVA L player (CD + IPOD)
Replies
5
Views
1K
RadioGaGa
R
A
Help with a impact drill Li Ion battery.
2
Replies
22
Views
3K
Tony Stewart
U
  • Question
Help to identify a component
Replies
4
Views
2K
Nigel Goodwin
Menu
Log in
Register
Cookies are required to use this site. You must accept them to continue using the site. Learn more…