Labelling project boxes

alec_t

Well-Known Member

Most Helpful Member

• Jul 17, 2011

• #1

You've built your circuit, you've got the box for it. What about labelling the box front?
Try this:-
1) Create your artwork full-size with graphics software, then flip the image horizontally to give a mirror image.
2) Cut along the 'hinge' of a laminating pouch, thus creating two sheets.
3) Using an ink-jet printer ( NOT a laser printer ) print your artwork on the adhesive-coated surface of one of the sheets.
4) When the ink has THOROUGHLY dried, align the sheet ink-side down on the box and trim off any surplus.
5) If switches etc will protrude through the box then cut appropriate holes in the sheet.
6) Re-align the sheet then, taking care not to move it, iron it on to the box with a domestic clothes iron at a moderate heat setting (some experimenting to find the right setting may be necessary).
7) Allow the sheet/box to cool undisturbed.

Alec

 

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MEJY1988

New Member

• Jul 17, 2011

• #2

Sounds like a great ideal. Have you tried it. If so, got any pictures. I would love to see how it turned out for you.

 

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canadaelk

Active Member

• Jul 17, 2011

• #3

Here is what I do:
I do an overlay of the frontpanel in my pc-board program and take it to a photographic place to make a negative, imulsion side down (towards the support panel). The visible surface is cross-hatched with fine sandpaper to the desired texture and than satin laqured. The back areas are covered with masking tape, than spray-painted. This requires several steps if you use different colours. In the sample shown (a 4-gang American standard-sized electrical plate cover) we use gold and red (and unpainted for LEDs). The negative is attached with spray contact cement to the support plate.
This looks professional and we use a number of custom made pieces of test equipment with thes front-panels for over 15 years.

 

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carbonzit

Active Member

• Jul 17, 2011

• #4

Here's my method: admittedly not the best, but I make do with what materials and machines I have.

Lay out the artwork right-reading, full-size (I use Corel Draw). Print either on self-adhesive label stock or plain paper (I use a laser printer).

If plain paper, I use 3M spray adhesive to stick the paper to the panel.

In either case, when the artwork is adhered to the panel, I cover it with a clear plastic laminating sheet.

You can also print directly onto the laminating sheet with a laser printer, but this isn't as permanent, as the toner can eventually wear off. Covering it with clear plastic makes it pretty indestructible.

 

KJ6EAD

Active Member

• Jul 17, 2011

• #5

This may not be as inexpensive but you can't touch the quality and durability.
**broken link removed**

 

alec_t

Well-Known Member

Most Helpful Member

• Jul 17, 2011

• #6

@MEJY1988
Yes, I've used it successfully. One project only so far (and I no longer have that, so sorry no pic).

 

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shortbus=

Well-Known Member

Most Helpful Member

• Jul 17, 2011

• #7

alec_t said:

3) Using an ink-jet printer ( NOT a laser printer ) print your artwork on the adhesive-coated surface of one of the sheets.
Alec

Click to expand...

I have a dumb question about this - How do you keep the adhesive from sticking to the paper feed rolls in the printer?

 

alec_t

Well-Known Member

Most Helpful Member

• Jul 18, 2011

• #8

It doesn't stick, because laminator sheet adhesive (at least, on the sheets I use) is heat-sensitive and is non-sticky at normal room temperature. Perhaps if you live in the tropics it could be an issue! It would certainly be an issue if you used a laser printer !!

 

Last edited: Jul 18, 2011

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carbonzit

Active Member

• Jul 18, 2011

• #9

So I guess you don't use the laminating sheets that come with a peel-off backing? Those will go through a laser printer with no problem. (In fact, those are the only types I've ever seen or used.)

 

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MEJY1988

New Member

• Jul 18, 2011

• #10

carbonzit said:

So I guess you don't use the laminating sheets that come with a peel-off backing? Those will go through a laser printer with no problem. (In fact, those are the only types I've ever seen or used.)

Click to expand...

Carbonzit, He is using laminating pouches cut in half, as stated in the original post. Such as these.

 

Mr RB

Well-Known Member

• Jul 18, 2011

• #11

I'd like to see photos of the results. If it works well it could be very handy to put full coloured decals on panels.

 

alec_t

Well-Known Member

Most Helpful Member

• Jul 19, 2011

• #12

@MrRB
See post #6.
One (fairly obvious) thing I should have added. The artwork has to cover only parts of the laminating sheet, not the whole surface, so that there is enough exposed adhesive to attach the sheet securely to the front panel.

 

Last edited: Jul 19, 2011

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shortbus=

Well-Known Member

Most Helpful Member

• Jul 19, 2011

• #13

Anyone ever try this? **broken link removed**

 

OlPhart

Member

• Jul 19, 2011

• #14

In keeping with being a cheap {see name}:
print a direct (non reversed) image
cut out image outline
roll out 2" wide clear packing tape, sticky side up
Carefully inlay printed image (use 2+ tape widths as req'd)
align & affix to box

Been doing this a Long time, works with any printer. Only trick is dealing with static of tape for inlay stage. Works great indoors, but not weatherproof. G.H. <<<)))

 

Mr RB

Well-Known Member

• Jul 20, 2011

• #15

Interesting! I've done them by laser printing onto coloured card paper from the newsagent (you can get silver card etc in project sheet size, it looks brushed metal-like) and gluing it to the panel. Then spraying fast dry clear laquer over it to seal it and provide a water resistant gloss surface.

The laser print won't run when the clear spray is applied (like injet runs), and the metallic coated paper is sealed enough that the laquer doens't soak in before it dries.