LED in a painting help?

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The fiber optics was my response. You obtain those tiny wire drill bits used for PC boards and drill a hole or simply poke a hole with a pin. You can anchor the fiber in place using a dab of glue from a hot-melt glue gun, or arrow fletching glue. Now, if the typical fiber optic strand is too small in diameter for your likes, you can visit an archery pro shop and buy the larger fiber filaments in various colors. They are bright and very effective. Just make sure the ends are cut smooth, flat and are polished a bit to ensure good projection.
 
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Marks256 said:
I tested it, and it works great!
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In real life or with one of those silly simulation programs?

I've tested connecting LEDs in paralell and they do work but they don't all illuminate at the same brightness. In your circuit this won't be a problem since the 470R resistor limits the current to 15mA. If you calculated a resistor value based on the assumption of getting 15mA per LED then 45mA would flow and more of it would flow through the LED with the lowest Vf causing it to over heat.
 
LEDs with different colors have different voltages. They don't work in parallel.
 
Hero999 are you parallelling LEDs with the same color from the same batch?

If so, does the brightness really differs so much that human eyes can detect them? I really must do an experiment to find out.

audioguru said:
No it doesn't, it just burns out first.
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Ok, another trick(unreal) question. Different color LEDs in parallel. After the LED with lowest voltage burnt out, does the next one lights up?
 
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eblc1388 said:
Ok, another trick(unreal) question. Different color LEDs in parallel. After the LED with lowest voltage burnt out, does the next one lights up?
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No, it also burns out, then the next one, then the next one. The more LEDs in parallel then the quicker they blink when they burn out. You might even have some identical LEDs burn out together, making an extra bright blink.
 
White or blue LEDs have a gradual increase in voltage for increasing current. Red ones are very sharp. So I think red ones are more likely not to match well when they are in parallel.
Also, ultra-bright white and blue LEDs are so bright that you don't see a difference in brightness.
 
The brightness of LED depends on how much Power = V*I that applies on LED, not just current (A) alone.

Should use same spec & description LEDs in same circuit to get same brightness on each LED

- Series cuircuit is recommended for stay still circuit.
- Paralell circuit is recommended for removable circuit and or independent circuit.

Motsly, LEDs in series is recommended. It saves energy because the series circuit draw less current.


In theory and fact, you can apply 120ACV on 80-90 LEDs (typicly, LED needs 1.5-2V to get mornal brightness) can be in series
(Line---FUSE---LED1,LED2,LED3,.... LED50......,LED79,LED80 ---- neutral).

But you should not try it, you will get short if you accidentally touch on exposed LED's legs starting from LED50 to LED1.
 
What do you mean "The same batch"? Do you mean the same kind? Yes, they were all three the same, and EXTREAMLY high quality. They came straight from an IBM Memory Module(you know, the things that are about the size of a desk).
 
When I mean the same batch I mean more than the same kind. I mean they were all manufactured on the same wafer so they'll have nearly exactly the same characterisics, so it's no wonder it worked.
 
Murphy's Law says that one or two LEDs will need replacement but identical ones won't be available. Then the new replacements and the old ones in parallel will smoke, one group after the other.
 
I believe you, audiosuguru doesn't understand that all the LEDs in your memory module were probably manufactured at exactly the same time.
 
I think the chances of them being manufactured from the same slab is very slim. It is possible, but a very small chance.
 
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