Hi,
Hey i must have missed this thread originally. Hope it's not too late to reply.
I'm still here. I read them all. The more people reply the better picture I can form.
BTW. You’re only too late when you stop breathing
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Hi,
Hey i must have missed this thread originally. Hope it's not too late to reply.
Hi there,
Thanks for the reply.
It's more laziness than anything else i guess, but then again i have other things to do that are more pressing time wise.
I've tried several distros of Ubuntu and have never got even one of them up and running on any of my systems. Perhaps it is my graphics card, but i'd have to fool around with it more i guess. I got Mandriva to work so i used that. It works ok so i was happy with it.
I always meant to try programs like Wine and such, but never got around to doing that either. Most of my programs are windowed, but some are console.
Hi,
It's a GeForce 7900GS. Sound compatible?
Hi Ya MrAl
If that is the card I think it is then it is the same card I ran in a dual boot configuration using the Susie distro of Linux. Matter of fact the Susie Linux 9.0 had the native Linux drivers right in the install. Anyway using the link cr0sh was kind enough to provide should yield drivers for most Linux distros.
Ron
Yeah i guess i could check those drivers out. But one other problem remains...
When i try to boot with any Ubuntu package i've downloaded, i never get a
screen to work in. I may have already junked the CD's now that i had those
versions on. Not that i cant download it again.
solder them back together once reinstalled. I've had a million fans dry up like
that now, big ones, small ones, mid sized ones. A little cleaning and oiling
and they are back in service.
Oh i forgot to mention that i have a new mother board since way back then too. It's a more recent model.
Yes i've run into those bronze bearings too many times already. I find what works is to clean it out good as well as the shaft before oiling. Also, have you tried the new synthetic oils? They work much better and hold up longer. They sell a small bottle called "Liquid Bearings" but i havent tried it yet. I had tried synthetic automobile oil in the larger fans. In this smaller fan i used 3 in 1 oil i think, but it is still going strong. I can spot the fan failing by reading the temperature of the heatsink with a thermal probe and another right from the card chip.
What do you mean by upside down? The way this one is built it blows the heat out the top. I have HUGE case fans (2x250mm, 1x200mm) to get rid of the heat.
Jugurtha:
Not sure what you mean by XP SP3 cant work with Windows 7. Do you mean you can
not dual boot or something?
Motherboard about 6 months old, but the model is probably at least a year old.
I'll have to fool around with Linux again one of these days. I dont really mind
the version i use now though which is a live version.
The synthetic for this little application is available in an 1 ounce bottle.
It sells for 7 bucks though.
Oh i see what you mean now about the graphics cards. This one has the air
blowing out to the side of the card, which if the case is standing up, actually
blows out the side toward the inside of the side of the case.
I had also used a regular hard drive cooler and strapped it to the side of the
card when the little fan first gave out. That took care of it pretty well being
a much larger fan (about 3 inch diameter vs 1 inch original).
I am keeping an eye on the remanufactured fan though to see how long it lasts.
If it doesnt last more than a year this way i'll invest in some synthetic and
try that next. It's a little tricky getting out but not too bad.
I use regular oil in my car too but am planning to go back to synthetic soon.
I was using it but after my last oil change i decided to go back to regular
because the cost difference was so large. But when i do the oil myself it
will only cost for the oil itself so no big deal.
Recently, I've been interested in drivers, and it's just an amazing field.
If it works for you, then stick with it - no need to change just to change (that can lead to more problems).
Yeah - it took me a long time to find a new tube of Super Lube; my original tube was almost gone. I was contemplating purchasing some off Amazon or Ebay, but then I found that Ace Hardware sold it. While looking around, though, I found this stuff that was basically silicone gel lubricant (actual gel) for cable pulling at Lowes - the only problem was that it came in a 1 quart bottle. I don't need -that- much...
I've done similar wacky things for cooling CPUs back in the Pentium/Pentium II days...
At one time I read this blog where these guys got this brand new corvette to run a oil change test on. What they did was to use regular oil (10W30), nothing special (I think it was Penzoil or something) - and they changed it religiously every 3000 miles for a total of something like 15,000 miles (I don't really remember right). In between each change, they would send a test sample of the oil to a lab for testing (metals, viscosity - the whole 9 yards - not a cheap test by any means). They would publish their results.
Then they continued the same procedure, but instead of changing the oil, they would only change the filter, and "top up" the oil with a fresh install of 1 quart of the same weight (essentially replacing the filter's oil). They did the same tests.
What they found was is that there wasn't any difference in wear or anything by just "topping up"; the viscosity and metals content never really changed that much - certainly not enough to warrant complete oil changes, and not enough to justify synthetics, even in a "performance vehicle" like they were using.
I really wish I had saved the blog, because it was an interesting experiment. Now, with a real vehicle and stop-n-go traffic, you'd probably experience a different result. Plus, in order to know, you'd have to be able to send your oil off for testing every time you changed it to monitor the variables. They didn't say to "just top it up and change the filter" and you'd be ok. But they did seem to make a good case against the "every 3K" mantra that is in every owners manual.
That said - I always do the 3K thing anyhow - an oil change ain't that expensive, especially when you DIY.
I took a class from IBM called "Kernel Internals" for AIX. It was absolutely fascinating, the guy teaching the class wrote the ethernet drivers for IBM back in the day. He's forgotten more about asm than i'll probably ever learn. At the end of the class we created our own driver and inserted it into the kernel.
I asked him about optimizations between gcc and IBM's expensive C compiler. He proceeded to step through asm code talking about how many clock cycles each operation took. In short the expensive compiler was 60% faster than generic statements because gcc didn't have all the special, unique calls on that platform.
Now that you mention it, i've always wondered why the air blows out the way it does from the graphics card. The thing is, the fans on the side of the case blow air INTO the case, which means it is blowing AT the graphics card side, and that is the side that blows the air OUT, so the air from the graphics card is blowing against the case fan air flow. That's not really correct. It should flow WITH the case fan flow. The other thing is that the case fan flow as is works the best with the other stuff like the CPU and MoBo chips, so the case fan in that area can not be reversed (to blow outward). It has to blow inwards. This is one reason why i liked putting the bigger fan on the side, but that's not that great either when it comes to getting the flows matched because the heatsink itself directs much of the air flow (direction). The alternative and maybe best would be to have it blow DOWN on the card, so the air flow is the same as the case fans. It's a little unfortunate that then the air would blow at the top or bottom of another card right next to the graphics card :-(