Avoid using Y5F or Z5U dielectric they are complete junk. X5R and X7R are best buy and good quality.
I tend to avoid X5R too. Why bother with X5R when you can use X7R.
spec
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Avoid using Y5F or Z5U dielectric they are complete junk. X5R and X7R are best buy and good quality.
some of the large ones were only available in X5R.I tend to avoid X5R too. Why bother with X5R when you can use X7R.
spec
Yes that is true, but when you do a worst case tolerance with large X5R ceramic capacitors, you find that they are not necessarily that large.some of the large ones were only available in X5R.
Capacitors can have a big impact on equipment performance.My supplier sells "ceramic", "mks", "mkt", mkp" non-polarised capacitors: which should I (not) choose?
You are tha men! I searched the net this morning before posting my question but no proper answer. You and bountyhunter did it. Thank you.Capacitors can have a big impact on equipment performance.
My (biased) advice is not to use ceramic capacitors, apart from decoupling. All other non-polarised capacitor types will be OK for frequency compensation on your power supply.
MKS, MKT, polyester metal film capacitors are general purpose capacitors. They have a high temperature rating and are much cheaper than other film or foil capacitors.
PPS, polyphenylene sulphide metalized film capacitors are pretty close to MKP in electrical performance. They are higher temperature and lower cost (used for HiFi applications)
MKP, polypropylene metalized film capacitors are excellent electrically but are lower temperature than MKS and not suitable for surface mount and are expensive (used for audiophile applications)
MFP, polypropylene foil capacitors are superb electrically but are lower temperature (like MKP) and not suitable for surface mount. They are rare and very expensive (used for high end audiophile applications)
Other capacitors: polystyrene, silver mica for example have good low current, high frequency characteristics.
spec
No probs earckens,You are tha men! I searched the net this morning before posting my question but no proper answer. You and bountyhunter did it. Thank you.
Sure: I will have a look.Hi Spec, reading your text and subsequently again studying your post 22 (and 12) I discovered an anomaly between what I think the layout should be and what you drafted in your posts. Now I may be wrong, and that is why I would like to ask you if I may pm you the circuit that you had drafted in post 12 with what I think should be the correct layout.
I would appreciate tremendously you taking a look at my drawing and comment on the corrections that I think should be in place. They all are centered around the layout for +IN and -IN.
My error: I should have said I2C interface.For the current measurement what do you mean by "SPI"?
You can power both the controller and the current monitor amplifier (whatever type) from a supply line, say 5V, derived from the PSU main supply. A Zener diode, as you describe, could be used or even a three terminal voltage regulator.Installing measurement on the high side makes it a problem to power the controller (Atmega 328). Unless I use a reference zener and hang this from the positive, with a drain resistor to negative and hang the controller on the positive side: POS - CATH Zener - ANODE Zener (connected to negative of the controller) - DRAIN Resistor. The Zener current plus the controller current pass through the drain resistor to GND. Workable?
Hi Spec, a 7805 can have max 28V over its input, so that is out
which is why I think about a Zener; and a reference Zener as fixed voltage for the controller would make the AD conversion more accurate.
Instrumentation amplifier: do you have some suggestions?
Holiday in Spain: if only Ohm's law is at issue you had not enough sangria
Hi earckens,Hi Spec, reading your text and subsequently again studying your post 22 (and 12) I discovered an anomaly between what I think the layout should be and what you drafted in your posts. Now I may be wrong, and that is why I would like to ask you if I may pm you the circuit that you had drafted in post 12 with what I think should be the correct layout.
I would appreciate tremendously you taking a look at my drawing and comment on the corrections that I think should be in place. They all are centered around the layout for +IN and -IN.
Hi Spec, thanks for the TL783 info, I did not know of its existence. In my application the current draw would be between 20mA and 100mA for the controller and a I2C LCD display, so that is acceptable/doable with a Zener; plus a LM4040 5.0 will give me a reference voltage useful for an accurate A/D conversion.
You mention INA193, but since I would hang the controller and sensor module from the high side, dropping with a 5V Zener and in parallel over this Zener the controller and sensor, would I not be able to use a INA219? The advantage being that on Aliexpress I can buy the whole sensor module (high accuracy B-version) for less then €5 (**broken link removed** and being lazy by nature I would not have to build circuitry around a INA193 chip (no module for that one in China): what is your opinion?
Hi Spec, included is a concept drawing for the current and voltage measurement. Since I hang the controller (Atmega Pro Mini 16M 5V) from the positive side, its ground hangs 5 V lower, yet 44Vdc (rectifier bridge output) - 5Vdc = 39Vdc above the PSU ground. The PSU regulates between 0Vdc and 30Vdc, therefor the voltage feedback to the controller is between -39Vdc + 0Vdc = -39Vdc and -39Vdc + 30Vdc = -9Vdc. So I need to convert voltages between -39Vdc and -9Vdc to 0Vdc and +5Vdc.Hmm, an interesting approach but I think you would need a separate isolated power supply for the INA219 + Microcontroller + display if I understand what you are proposing correctly. Otherwise you would be potentially injecting 100ma plus into the output of the PSU. Can you post a schematic of what you propose?
It sounds like you will be using an Arduino Mega for the microcontroller: is that correct?
spec