I'll try to keep this short as I am a newbie to the board. If I have left out some vital information please ask.
I have a light bar I am trying to mount to my vehicle as a "quick disconnect" to be able to install it quickly when needed and remove just as easy. The current setup requires 7 wires to run the bar with another 9 to run a traffic director mounted inside.
The bar itself (strobes, alley lights and takedown lights) is a positive switched system...the traffic director is a negative switched system.
Running 16 wires to the light bar makes for a huge harness. I don't mind the size so much but to make it quick disconnect would require the use of the "mil-spec" multi-pin connectors for the electrics. I love those, but the crimp tool costs in the ballpark of $400, so I am trying to work around that.
My idea to make a thinner cable harness was to mount relays inside the light bar, run a main hot lead and ground lead, then use something like CAT5 or CAT6 outdoor (uv) rated cables as "triggers" for the relays.
A few questions:
1) Can CAT5/6 wire handle 12v? My Carling switch panel would provide 12v (unknown amps but probably not much) to trigger the relay to switch on, using power from the main power buss I would mount inside.
2) I read that relays could be used to "reverse polarity" but not how to wire them. The traffic director control box uses one lead as hot that goes to the lights, the has 8 negative wires coming back, switching the circuits on inside the controller. The controller is "intelligent" (per the manufacturer), so I am guessing the hot out must need to ground somewhere then another 12v must be returned for the unit to turn on and off the particular light).
3) If this is possible (use CAT5/6 as control wires), does anyone know of a way I can mount a receptacle to the roof of my truck and make it weatherproof? Preferably something panel mount to keep the profile low for when the light bar is not in use. Picture a wall mount Ethernet jack but maybe 1" round with a jam nut type of setup. I am sure I could break out a dremel and make one, but the prospect of not finding out I messed it up until AFTER I have a ruined headliner doesn't appeal to me, so I am willing to buy a proven jack.
If I am completely off the mark and sound crazy, please be gentle.
Thanks!
I have a light bar I am trying to mount to my vehicle as a "quick disconnect" to be able to install it quickly when needed and remove just as easy. The current setup requires 7 wires to run the bar with another 9 to run a traffic director mounted inside.
The bar itself (strobes, alley lights and takedown lights) is a positive switched system...the traffic director is a negative switched system.
Running 16 wires to the light bar makes for a huge harness. I don't mind the size so much but to make it quick disconnect would require the use of the "mil-spec" multi-pin connectors for the electrics. I love those, but the crimp tool costs in the ballpark of $400, so I am trying to work around that.
My idea to make a thinner cable harness was to mount relays inside the light bar, run a main hot lead and ground lead, then use something like CAT5 or CAT6 outdoor (uv) rated cables as "triggers" for the relays.
A few questions:
1) Can CAT5/6 wire handle 12v? My Carling switch panel would provide 12v (unknown amps but probably not much) to trigger the relay to switch on, using power from the main power buss I would mount inside.
2) I read that relays could be used to "reverse polarity" but not how to wire them. The traffic director control box uses one lead as hot that goes to the lights, the has 8 negative wires coming back, switching the circuits on inside the controller. The controller is "intelligent" (per the manufacturer), so I am guessing the hot out must need to ground somewhere then another 12v must be returned for the unit to turn on and off the particular light).
3) If this is possible (use CAT5/6 as control wires), does anyone know of a way I can mount a receptacle to the roof of my truck and make it weatherproof? Preferably something panel mount to keep the profile low for when the light bar is not in use. Picture a wall mount Ethernet jack but maybe 1" round with a jam nut type of setup. I am sure I could break out a dremel and make one, but the prospect of not finding out I messed it up until AFTER I have a ruined headliner doesn't appeal to me, so I am willing to buy a proven jack.
If I am completely off the mark and sound crazy, please be gentle.
Thanks!
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