By the JS thread, I assume you mean the one hot-linked in your post # 13. I found that thread some time ago and that's what got me started on this board.
Sadly I'm no longer in a position to take resistance readings. Will have to wait for next season.
FYI, here is detailed info on the two 4PDT relays. In the photo it's just hard to see the layers of contacts. I just replaced the Up relay (top one) due to a failed coil, so I know it is the correct device:
PM-17AY-24VAC-PMSeries-OpenStylePowerRelays.pdf
BTW, I think I understand your diagram in post 18, including your edit, but I can't get it to square with the fact that there is a capacitor connected to wire 1 and 2, and nothing else.
Following is a verbal description of what I think the path is for power to the motor:
L1(+115 VAC) and L2(-115 VAC) connect to two of the unmarked wires and presumably power the main windings.
Somehow inside the motor, L1 and L2 tie back out to the two heavy yellow leads via wire 4 and 5 with a capacitor in series on wire 4.
With a "Down" button push the Down relay (normally closed) opens and returns power to the starting coil(s) with no phase change relative to L1 and L2
With an "Up" button push, power flows up the parallel yellow leads to the Up relay which opens and transfers reversed polarity power back to the starting coil(s).
Don't know where the centrifugal switch fits or the other capacitor.
I'm sure I'm not using the correct terminology, but hope you can decipher what i'm saying.
With regard to the four power contactors, I believe two of them close for one direction and the other two for the reverse (and they chatter quite a bit if the control relays don't behave cleanly, such as with a failing coil). That threw me for a long time before I figured out that it's the relays that are the problem. I still don't understand why or how all these contactors are needed when all they are doing is switching L1 and L2 on or off. The motor, and therefore the tram, would simply stop if the contactor fails since that also kills power to the electric brake.
Sadly I'm no longer in a position to take resistance readings. Will have to wait for next season.
FYI, here is detailed info on the two 4PDT relays. In the photo it's just hard to see the layers of contacts. I just replaced the Up relay (top one) due to a failed coil, so I know it is the correct device:
PM-17AY-24VAC-PMSeries-OpenStylePowerRelays.pdf
BTW, I think I understand your diagram in post 18, including your edit, but I can't get it to square with the fact that there is a capacitor connected to wire 1 and 2, and nothing else.
Following is a verbal description of what I think the path is for power to the motor:
L1(+115 VAC) and L2(-115 VAC) connect to two of the unmarked wires and presumably power the main windings.
Somehow inside the motor, L1 and L2 tie back out to the two heavy yellow leads via wire 4 and 5 with a capacitor in series on wire 4.
With a "Down" button push the Down relay (normally closed) opens and returns power to the starting coil(s) with no phase change relative to L1 and L2
With an "Up" button push, power flows up the parallel yellow leads to the Up relay which opens and transfers reversed polarity power back to the starting coil(s).
Don't know where the centrifugal switch fits or the other capacitor.
I'm sure I'm not using the correct terminology, but hope you can decipher what i'm saying.
With regard to the four power contactors, I believe two of them close for one direction and the other two for the reverse (and they chatter quite a bit if the control relays don't behave cleanly, such as with a failing coil). That threw me for a long time before I figured out that it's the relays that are the problem. I still don't understand why or how all these contactors are needed when all they are doing is switching L1 and L2 on or off. The motor, and therefore the tram, would simply stop if the contactor fails since that also kills power to the electric brake.