Relay circuit with reset button and buzzer

KeepItSimpleStupid said:

Nope: 28 VDC - You'll need three 9V batteries in series.

Click to expand...

Even though the specs say operating voltage 3~28VDC?

Well, what do you know? The short version says 28 V and the long says 3-28, nominally 12 so it got me.

So, I guess, it's not loud enough add batteries <G> otherwise it's OK.

Okay so the buzzer works, when the relay is off. The buzzer test button works when the relay is on. The float turns on and off the power strip. However the circuit is not latching. I do not need to reset it when power goes out or when the float trips the power. What part of the circuit did I mess up?

Just saw this. My new computer is just being looked at. With my old one, I can use for an hour before having to charge the battery externally. Hopefully, I can get to this soon.

2/3 congratulations.

The buzzer works correctly and when the relay is on the outlet is on. Good job!

What I'm going to ask you to do is the following:
1. Disconnect the floats to the circuit (2 free wires)
2. Keep the buzzer relay contact; keep the outlet relay contact; disconnect the other one. (2 free wires)

OK, now I know you can do this: Wire the "RESET" pushbutton such that when you push it, the relay turns on and when you release it, it turns off. OK?

I tried something to see if it would work, and I determined what the problem is. The push button to reset the circuit is a NC switch instead of NO. The push button runs from pins 6-9. I thought I could change them to 3-9, but that did not work. In fact the circuit did nothing when I made that change. So I need to purchase an NO push button?

Yep, needs to be NO. You can use the NC button for an off switch if you want.

That is what I thought. Well at least I know everything else works. I will order the switch tonight. Thanks again. How are you making out with your computer?

Toshiba was supposed to look at it yesterday, but they havn't called me to verify that they agree on what I sent it in for. They called me to discuss the problems WITHOUT having the list I enclosed in front of them. It doesn't make sense to me, but apparently makes sense to them.

Issues I'm having is that the spacebar is intermittant. Took me a while to figure that out. But I found out that I could make it fail all the time by using the front edge. Sometimes if I used the right or top of the key. It worked all the time if I used the left or top edge of the key.

The left click key returns to a slightly depressed position. They said they may not fix it unless it is broken.

Then we have the oddities. This laptop uses touch keys with LEDs underneath them. If you push wireless on or mute it, the indicators just go off for a few seconds. What's with that? The ECO button does not have a light, it seems.

Then there is just plain eronomic stupidity. Not labeling the User's guide as "Toshiba User's guide". Not placing the laptop specifications on the computer or in the box.

And not labeling the ports or the CD Eject button on the keyboard side. My HP did.

My old Laptop is battery power only, but I have to charge the battery externally. Battery life has been about an hour. I'm using a new battery now and the life might be better. I don't know yet. This old laptop needs a lot of work. I'm afraid to mess with it until I have a 100% working one.

Just wanted to let you know it worked great. Thanks for your help.

Your welcome.

I shipped the Laptop back to Toshiba today for round 2.

Dear Sir,
I have same type of small relay circuit requirement. My requirement is described as under
What I need is connection diagram for 3PDT relay in order to solve my trouble.

Project Description
1) I have a tank with float switch fixed on it & I need High & low level alarm box, i want a common buzzer and common muting switch for the both the level alarms
2) I have float switch with two levels high & low, both floats are NO type. i can reverse it to NC also
3) i want a buzzer to buzz if the low level switch is closed. This will happen if tank is getting emptied
4) I will mute the alarm by a muting switch, the alarm should be reset with this action.
5) If the tank is getting filled and high level reaches then high level alarm should buzz
6) I will mute the alarm by a muting switch, the alarm should be reset with this action.

Please let me know what additional information is required from my end.

Welcome Parag,

you can do it with a single pole relay as shown:



On the State Transition Diagram, there is an implied return from ALARM to IDLE on the (notFull and notEmpty) = somewhere in between condition.

I was going to start a new thread but same topic... Other one finished... Carry on...

MikeMl said:

Welcome Parag,

you can do it with a single pole relay as shown:

View attachment 105156

On the State Transition Diagram, there is an implied return from ALARM to IDLE on the (notFull and notEmpty) = somewhere in between condition.

Click to expand...

Hi Mike,
Thanks for quick help but my circuit is 230 volt. I wan to use a relay which is as attached. Please advise me if i can still go with your diagram, else suggest me based on my reply. I am not so expert into electrical, hence want to clarify before I proceed.
Regards
Parag

Really dangerous and very bad practice to run 230Vac to float switches in water. You must obtain a low voltage transformer and do all of the logic at no more than 24Vac or dc. Stop before you kill someone, including yourself.

You can use a 5Vdc relay and an old wall-wart phone charger as the DC power supply. A Sonalert will run from 5Vdc.

MikeMl said:

Really dangerous and very bad practice to run 230Vac to float switches in water. You must obtain a low voltage transformer and do all of the logic at no more than 24Vac or dc. Stop before you kill someone, including yourself.

You can use a 5Vdc relay and an old wall-wart phone charger as the DC power supply. A Sonalert will run from 5Vdc.

Click to expand...

Hi Mike
Understood your concerns. Just want to let you know that this is relay ratings (220 volt AC), Signal from the level switch is low voltage only coming as NO or NC. The reason I don't want to use power adaptor or transformer is I don't want system to fail because of failure of Transformer OR power adaptor.

I have diagram from supplier but I am looking for common buzzer & common muting switch.
But I appreciate your reply and concerns, I will think in that direction also. Letme know if you can support me in my direction of working on this project.

Regards
Parag

If you put your float switches in series with a 230V relay coil as I show in my diagram, what is the voltage across the float switches when they are open? The voltage across the float switches will be "low" only if the primary power to the circuit is low.

So use a high-reliability "control transformer" as the power source...

If you elect to go with 24Vac, then do not use the diode, and get a "buzzer" or "sonalert" that works on AC instead of DC