Splitting DRL and Turn wire

[rfranzk]

Possible logic chip, and, nand, or, nor, etc. Write up a truth table for what you need and see what fits. Might need a combination of a few logic chips plus some semiconductors to handle the current. Seems to there should be a way to disable with the proper scan tool.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

I'm presuming a number of things here:

1) The DRL 'bulb' is used both as the DRL (on all the time), and the indicator (flashes OFF and ON, then goes back to permanently ON).

2) It's essentially just an LED 'bulb' and has a single 12V feed to it, plus it's ground of course.

So, cut the 12V wire and use an FET as a switch in the wire. Use a PIC running a timer fed from the 12V input side - when the 12V feed appears (i.e. you've started the engine) the 12V feed will go high, at that point the PIC can turn the FET ON (DRL ON) and start timing - once the timing goes past a certain point (a bit more than the ON time of the indicators) the PIC should turn the FET OFF (turning the DRL OFF). The DRL will then be OFF the rest of the drive.

When you use the indicators the 12V will vanish (for the OFF time), and then go high again (for the ON time), this will reset the PIC which will start timing again, but won't time out as the 12V will disappear before it has time to. At the end of the indicator sequence the 12V will stay high, and the PIC will time out, and turn the DRL OFF again.

This will give one spurious flash of the front indicators, slightly longer than the normal indicator flash - but that's probably acceptable?.

You could also do it in hardware, it's simply a monostable multi-vibrator, a 555 could be used.

 

[be80be]

They say if the car has u connect you can turn them off with it.

 

[dr pepper]

One thing to be aware of looking at the comments is that the cars Bcm or inter module will most likely sense the current{s} drawn by the bulb, if you disconnect it then a dtc code will most likely set.
A resistance that draws a similar current to the bulb ought to work.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

One thing to be aware of looking at the comments is that the cars Bcm or inter module will most likely sense the current{s} drawn by the bulb, if you disconnect it then a dtc code will most likely set.
A resistance that draws a similar current to the bulb ought to work.

He said DRL - and DRL is usually LED, so low current and high reliability - so possibly not monitored?.

 

[dr pepper]

Yep could be right.

 

[narkeleptk]

It definitely will have some type of monitoring. How picky it is I couldn't tell you.

 

[Sbyder]

Thanks everyone for your replies.

Without responding to everyone individually, the key points are as follows.

We are in Australia, so a quick trip to America is not possible.

Australia allows white DRLs not amber. These are amber.

You cant turn the DRL off without the car being sold into the USA. So its not a programming thing we can obtain.

The BCM controls all external lights and will throw a fault when we stop the DRL feed, but we have a circuit that can send an appropriate signal to the BCM that makes it think its ok.

Nigel, your response is exactly what Im looking for. Ill work on that now.

Thanks again

 

[narkeleptk]

Yea that is pretty tough if you have already moved them. The rest of the world does not have very good access to the programming networks for NOA cars the same as we do. You should really have your exporter take care of things like this before sending them over.

I take it clear blinkers are also not allowed, eh?

 

[gophert]

He said DRL - and DRL is usually LED, so low current and high reliability - so possibly not monitored?.

A common misconception is that DRLs are low current. To be so easily seen in daylight, these lamps draw more current than headlights on some vehicles.

On one new, 2020 mode, each massive light-pipe DRL will take 36 Watts of LED power yet have no forward lighting output - just a uni-directional glow that can be seen from more than 400 ft in direct sunlight. There are heat sinks on the 2020 version and, because reliability is already projected to be lower than "acceptable" (<5-years), the 2021 redesign is already in the works to include a fan for the heat sinks at each end of the light pipe.

DRLs are advertised as a safety feature by the auto companies but the auto companies marketeers view them as a branding insignia.

 

[gophert]

Which year Challenger are you (OP) trying to modify. Here are kits available for 2015-2018. I imagine the 2019 kits also exist or are coming soon.

**broken link removed**

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

Which year Challenger are you (OP) trying to modify. Here are kits available for 2015-2018. I imagine the 2019 kits also exist or are coming soon.

**broken link removed**

Doesn't that make it WORSE?.

 

[gophert]

Doesn't that make it WORSE?.

Not if he sets it to white.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

Not if he sets it to white.

But then your indicators are white - so worse.

 

[gophert]

But then your indicators are white - so worse.

You are confused. Once the OP sees this option, I think the OP will understand how this kit can be used to replace the outer rings on the inner and outer cones without replacing the inner ring of LEDs of the inner cone (or any combination thereof for the rules/regulations in Australia).

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

You are confused. Once the OP sees this option, I think the OP will understand how this kit can be used to replace the outer rings on the inner and outer cones without replacing the inner ring of LEDs of the inner cone (or any combination thereof for the rules/regulations in Australia).

Well I was assuming my assumptions from post #22 were correct, as no one ever suggested otherwise.

As the cars aren't sold here, I've never seen one.