The reason why the lm317 is getting so hot is that it has to dissipate the extra Watts. The regulator is reducing the output voltage to 9V, but if you have a 25V transformer it has to dissipate all the extra voltage and current. So it generates heat.
Just thought I'd clear that up for you, I did not notice anyone tell you why to go with a lower voltage transformer.
The LM317 was getting hot with the 25v (actually it was @ 35v!!) transformer... Hero999 addressed this and told me to use the center tap (12v).. the LM317 does not change temperature while in operation now.
The reason I added the fan is because the heatsink would not fit inside the box.. just as a precaution .. and to ensure optimum life of all parts.
mneary: A suggestion: If the project is to go into an enclosure, you should begin there. It's easier to change the parts locations on the board before you etch it.
Yes you are correct, when the fan is turned on through my homemade (unfiltered pedal) you can hear noise.. that is why the red SPST button was added.. its used to turn the fan off when operating that particular pedal..
Thanks and keep up the constructive feedback - it will save others much time and money in the future
Peter Wadley
Just wanted to let you know that I tried the Laser Copier PCB method you pointed out earlier and it worked GREAT!
I will NEVER hand draw a PCB again!
Ive added a few pics below.
It took 2 tries to get the iron temperature right.. I set it to about 50% and ironed for 5 minutes.. peeled off nicely..
I have a question about etching though..
This time I heated the ferric chloride (I HATE THIS STUFF) and the etching went alot faster.. On the bottle it says to not heat past 55c... I went to 70c at one point.. I was just wondering if anyone knows if I was breathing poisonous fumes at that point..
if that makes sense..
Can someone PLEASE show me an alternate to FeCl!!! I cant stand the stuff! It smells like metallic blood, stains everything yellow, etchs VERY slowly, and makes my sink look awful!!
I just want maybe like a powder that I can add water too and it will be ready
What programs do you guys use to design your PCBs? This one is alright but the trial version does not let you print! So I had to print screen and print it with paint. shhh
I printed it off on my inkjet canon primus then took it over to my mothers laser copier.. set the contrast to 100% to make the lines as toned as possible.. hit copy then cut it out .. placed it on the pcb then you know the rest.
The paper from the copier is just normal A4 sheets also!
As for the etchant.. ammonium persulphate is exactly the one I am after.. it is used in the tutorial I used for making my laser PCB:
**broken link removed**
That is exactly what im looking for ... no fuss and no cuss.. just add the powder and swirl around.. hopefully my electronics store carries this!
I'm not surprised at all. I had a feeling that it would work with normal paper but I suppose I'll carry on using magazine paper because it costs nothing and plain A4 paper is relatively expensive.
I'm not surprised at all. I had a feeling that it would work with normal paper but I suppose I'll carry on using magazine paper because it costs nothing and plain A4 paper is relatively expensive.
I'd agree with audioguru =) Though you have to watch distance, most camera phones are fixed focus. When you're takeing pictures up close with a decent digital camera you have to remember to switch to macro mode because it changes the way the autofocus works.
Your exitement is justified, you're lucky it worked so well the first time.
Many people hear swear by various types of paper, some of them are proprietary and quite expensive. I myself swear by magazine paper and I've thought about trying normal paper but I'll just stick with what works for me, it's not like it's expensive.
I'd agree with audioguru =) Though you have to watch distance, most camera phones are fixed focus. When you're takeing pictures up close with a decent digital camera you have to remember to switch to macro mode because it changes the way the autofocus works.
Yes, I also tend to stick with things once they work I am going to try magazine paper also.. the normal printer paper was very hard to remove after soaking.. id think that magazine paper would be a bit easier in that department.
I wouldnt use boiling water with that stuff, if decomposes and gives off poisonous gass. You're better off sticking to the maximum rated temperature of 50 degrees C.