ULTRA clean 9VDC Power Supply Project

[Peter_wadley]

I'm glad it worked for you.

I've often found that the coloured areas work better though it does depend on your printer and the kind of paper.

Yeah I also find the more color the better adhesion. Must be glossier

 

[pradeep.durai]

it seems to be school project!!!!!!!
any way u tried ur level best!!!!!! congrats

 

[Disco Elephant]

Peter, I don't mean to rain on your parade, but I just built on of these, using a 7809, a few caps, a piece of vera-board and an only 12Vdc power pack I had lying around. Then whole thing cost about $5, excluding the power pack, and took about as long to design and build as you board took to etch. And because I'm only dropping a few volts across the 7809, it doesn't dissipate nearly the amount of power that you LM317 is.

 

[Lucas]

Power Supply for pedals

Hey-
I was reading up on your project. I am planning on doing something like this in the future for a bunch of pedals. I am not really familiar with electronics all that much so I'm researching a bunch of stuff now.

I was just curious if there is any pre-laid out PCB board that you might be able to buy or for a project like this or if it is necessary to do all the work personally. I just am trying to see if i can avoid doing the etching myself.

If anyone has any links or something that might help me let me know. Thanks!

 

[markhao]

this one's a smoking thread... haha

 

[Ubergeek63]

I just found two options on my camera.. 1) close up and 2) super close up

I do love my camera's super macro mode... I can focus in at under an inch away and take pictures of jewelry

 

[shokjok]

I never heard of "isopropanol". Did you mean to say, "isopropyl alcohol"?
Would a switching power supply ( UA78S40PC) be better for stability?
My choice for etchant is ammonium persulfate, cleaner than ferric chloride and it doesn't stain plastic or your skin.
A slikscreener is a better choice for a layout draft on the component side of the board.

 

[flying_flip]

Hey-
I was just curious if there is any pre-laid out PCB board that you might be able to buy or for a project like this or if it is necessary to do all the work personally. I just am trying to see if i can avoid doing the etching myself.

You could use perfboard (non-clad circuit board.)
Solder wires to replace the copper traces.
No etching, no worries

Phil

 

[ranggaperdana_06114]

how if i want to make the isolated power supply with output voltage +- 12v?
tanx

 

[mneary]

This thread contains everything you need. Just go to the beginning and make some small changes to the calculations.

 

[ranggaperdana_06114]

can you help to find it

 

[Rob_L]

Hello Peter, My names Rob, I'm from the UK and I'm a beginner when it comes to electronics, though I understand a lot of the theory, I'm used to electro/mechanical engineering like large scale alternators/engines etc. Im reviewing your design for this power supply (because I'm a keen guitarist, and to buy something like this here would cost around £130) and I've got one or two issues I was hoping you could clear up.
1. with regards to the full wave bridge rectifier, i have looked in RS catalogue for component and found one called the "KBU4 series" rated at 4A. However there are a range of different Vrrm values (100,200,400,800,1000). My guess would be that since the voltage will be stepped down to 12, i will only require one with a rating of 100Vrrm, is this correct?
2. I cannot find IN4002 diodes, only IN4002-E3 rated at 1A and 100Vrrm. will these suffice?
3. I know this is a novice question, but since im a novice, where does the LED fit into the circuit?
4. Looking through the Radioshack catalogue, there are a range of transformers available. Which is best to use? Chassis mount, PCB mount, Laminated, not Laminated etc. Also, what output current does the transformer have to be?
5. Have you identified a better Etching process yet? Since im new to this and i will be etching for the first time i thought i'd better find out. By the way, we can buy bags of persulphate crystals here in the UK at most electronics stores.

If you could answer these questions i'd really appreciate it. Im new to this site/forum thing, but once i start building it (this is the first electronics project i've ever done, but im getting plenty of help) i'll keep you updated if you like to show you what I've done.

Thanks,

Rob

 

[gogo2520]

Better Yet

I never heard of "isopropanol". Did you mean to say, "isopropyl alcohol"?
Would a switching power supply ( UA78S40PC) be better for stability?
My choice for etchant is ammonium persulfate, cleaner than ferric chloride and it doesn't stain plastic or your skin.
A slikscreener is a better choice for a layout draft on the component side of the board.

Hello I agree about ferric chloride being messy but I switched to using Muriatic Acid and Hydrogen Peroxide mix. 1 Part Muriatic Acid 2 Parts Peroxide. lot cheaper and quick. You don't have to heat it, just mix up a small batch and its ready to go. I use small amounts like a hafe of cup peroxide and a quarter cup Muriate acid. put in a plastic pan and sloach it around for about five minutes, rinse and your done. dump the mix in the toleit flush and you just cleaned you pipes just like liqued plumber dose.
gogo

 

[psecody]

You don't necessarily have to etch a pcb, if you want to stay a little bit cheaper just go with some perf board. Something like this maybe.

3) According to the schematic he posted in the first post it would got on the right side of the schematic (where the three circles are) those circles are the jacks for the pedals you would attach the LED just like you were adding one more of those jacks. Remember you'll need to use a resistor in series with that LED to keep it from burning up, a 390 ohm or more should work.

4) On the transformer I would probably end up getting this just to give myself some room but I think this one would probably work as well because by he figured three pedals and the LED to draw .77A so it should be alright but I'm not sure.