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I have a DS-1302 RTC module but how to use it?
I recall Jon Chandler made a vu meter clock but what he used for timing?
Am planning on a clock that has no hands, just LEDs but precision would be nice.
I didn't want the same data stream from the first 595 to te last so each 595 has its own data stream.
I am probably wrong after watching the video in post #105?
After I get my test boards and do some experimenting.
Guess he never caught on to serial
You send out the data to let’s say 10 595 it’s in a sting clock it all out then latch it what’s there to miss. Don’t forget first bit is last maybe that’s it
I did this before I saw your schematic. Please do it this way. Use the Swordfish SHIFT module.
ALL of the LEDs, including the 7-segment displays should be operated from the same data stream, clock and latch lines. Set up an array of bytes equal to the number of 74595s. When the display is to be updated, update the needed array elements and shift out ALL of the data then pulse the latch high.
The output enable pins may be used to dim the displays. I have separated the clock LEDs from the display LEDs so each section can be controlled independently.
You have a high chance of success using this circuit and it will be easy to route.
It's not about copying a schematic – it's about UNDERSTANDING what the circuit is doing. If you don't understand how it works, just stop. Do something else. EVERYTHING you need to know has already been explained.
It's a pitty that MrDEB doesn't understand how the '595 shift registers work. He could make something truly awesome if he wasn't so obstinate.
Imagine a Christmas tree shape with cheek-to-cheek alternating red and green LEDs around the perimeter. It would be simple to animate these LEDs as a marquee chaser. A red outline growing around the tree. A green outline. Alternating red and green. A marquee of red and green chasers. And the /OE of the '595s driving these LEDs connected to PWM0.
In the field of the tree, random LEDs in a random pattern. These LEDs can flash on and off. And the /OE of the '595s driving these LEDs connected to PWM1.
The marquee LEDs can be bright or dim, or fading up or down. The LEDs in the field separately changing brightness.
The cost of facilitating this dimming is connecting the /OE enabled to two PWM pins instead of ground. If you don't want PWM, set the pins low and ignore it.
Personally, I look for ways to add features, even when I don't plan on using them NOW.
It should probably be noted that this USB-C connector power arrangement WILL NOT WORK if plugged into a USB-C PD supply with a USB-C – USB-C cable. Resistors MUST be installed on the CC pins to ground to allow a USB-C PD supply to provide 5 volts.
I sit there and looked at the USB connector and said oh my God there be 100 pages the power not working.
And 100 why its not. Even worse you go out and buy a cheap cord so you have PD supply not powering cord not working what a nightmare
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