What's your favorite place to buy SMT components?

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DerStrom8

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Good evening everyone!

So it's finally happened--I've started designing my first PCB made up of SMD components. I have the designs laid out and am about ready to send the designs to the manufacturing company to get them made. Before I do that, though, I'd like to start sourcing my components. I have already ordered a PIC18F1220SO from Microchip, but I am looking for a good place to find a MIC5219 voltage regulator, and various 0805 resistors and capacitors, as well as a 1N4148W surface mount diode. Do you guys have a preferred supplier for surface mount components? Digikey seems to be my favorite at this point, Mouser is a bit more expensive, but I'm wondering if there are others that might be cheaper?

Suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Regards,
Matt
 
SMD!!!! I've just come off wire wrap!!!

Seriously though, I find Digikey the cheapest... I can buy components from America... Shipped... Import duty.. Still cheaper than getting them here in Blighty!!

My boards are done in quantities of 25 at a time... My local PCB emporium glues them on for me as I cant see the components let alone stick them on...

With prototyping.. We either get Breakout boards or my young lad ( newer eyes) sticks them on....
 
For resistors in particular and capacitors too, I would suggest getting a packaged assortment. The resistor assortments I got had 50 of each value (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PHE2A-KIT/PHE2A-KIT-ND/383662). That link is to the 1206 size. It will last a long time. On occasion, I will use an 805 size, but never smaller.

Another source for common capacitors -- I hate to say it -- is eBay. I have gotten almost full reels of 0.01, 0.1, etc. for only a few dollars each. If you are interested and agree to pay shipping, I will bequeath them to you. Such reels are more than one lifetime's supply. You will have to wait a few years though, I hope.

For tantalums on eBay, watch out for the age. Look up their spec sheets before ordering. Some will have unacceptable ESR for your purposes

Finally, for electrolytics, SMD's are not that much smaller. You can often just use a standard radial TH version, even with single-sided boards and non-plated holes.

John

Edit: With experience, you will find working with 805's is really no more difficult than 1206/1210 size.
 
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Hello

My first post here. Nice forum btw. I normally design my boards around the components I can readily buy locally. No point using exotics unless they are going to be used in quantity/or specifically needed. Out in the sticks here, one has to think about that.

Jacky
 
Hi Roman... I had a good look at that last time you posted.. It might happen very soon.... I have a spare 15" LCD monitor AND a spare web cam..

Its a good tool.....
 
Looks like a great idea! I've been wondering how I'm supposed to see where they're going. I've got a webcam lying around somewhere....


Thanks everyone for the suggestions. As of now I'm not really looking into doing a whole lot of SMD work, so buying a grab bag really won't do me much good. I'm trying to find the best place to buy, say, 10 10k resistors, 20 0.1uF capacitors, etc. Just individual components, rather than an assortment. My budget is also quite low for this project, due to the recent purchase of my new desktop. Just thought I'd ask to see what the common preference is around here.

Regards,
Matt
 
I prefer Digikey partly because their search engine is much better than the other major distributors. I find their prices a bit higher for small quantities, but this is tolerable. I especially like that they give Canadians a special shipping deal that Americans don't get. Canadians get a deal of $8 flat rate shipping for next-day (ie. Fedex Express) delivery for orders up to $200 and then free after that. It costs me more than $8 to drive to the store here, so Digikey gets my business.
 
Digikey started way pack in re-packaging. Before that time if you wanted one 1% resistor you would have to buy a 100.
Jameco can have cheaper prices, but in general when you buy from multiple sources, or have backorders, the shipping costs add up.
 
Thanks for the input everyone. I've actually started thinking about salvaging some old used ones. I have dozens of circuit boards just sitting in my workshop that I often try to salvage through-hole resistors, caps, and even chips from. I've started wondering if it would be worth trying to remove some SMT components from them as well. It would certainly save me a bit of cash. Any thoughts or opinions?
 
I scrape them off using a heat gun and knife - just scrape as soon as the solder is melted, sort out the pile afterwards. Separate the ones that get stuck together with soldering iron and tweezers. Actually I keep mixed passives and transistors in a little rummage pot, remarkably easy to find what I want in there - really was quite surprised - so I didn't bother to sort them out.

There are some videos floating around on the net on smd salvage - one where someone puts a board on an iron (that you iron your clothes with) and picks the components off with tweezers, another one where someone heats the board up with a heat gun and bangs it edge down on the bench - all the parts drop off! Didn't work for me with the boards I tried because the parts were glued as well as soldered
 
Thanks guys, that's great news! It'll save me quite a bit of time, trouble, and money!

Much appreciated!
 
Didn't work for me with the boards I tried because the parts were glued as well as soldered

If a cyanoacrylate adhesive was used ( ("super glue"), which is likely, they are not stable to soldering temperature and usually decompose at 200 to 220°C.

I would give it another try. Have you tried a propane torch on the back of the board?

John
 

Soldering or otherwise heating cyanoacrylate glue can create some very dangerous vapors that can burn the eyes and lining of the throat. I suggest you use extremely good ventilation if you choose to pursue this.
 
I guess you are right, I was remiss in not mentioning the compulsory safety warning.

So, if you are resoldering or removing components from any commercial board (or one I have made), be sure to wear appropriate safety equipment, such as goggles, supplied air respirator and good ventilation, as needed.

The spot used to affix components is between 0.1 and 1.0 uL, i.e., 0.1 to 1.0 mg. The average molecular weight of CA monomer is about 111, so in round numbers, you are dealing with 0.01 to 0.001 mmole (10 to 1 umole). One mole of gas is 22.4L (approximately); 1 umole would be 22.4 uL (22.4 mm^3 ). Be very careful when working in very small rooms!

BTW, as I have gotten older and my hands have gotten less steady, I will often use a microdot of CA to hold resistors and capacitors in place until I can get solder on one end. CA will polymerize very slowly on a copper surface. So, I put a small drop on a piece of waste PCB, then I use a tapered steel pin to apply a microdrop. A square-end, 1-mm pin delivers approximately 0.1 uL of water, so my drops are even less than estimated in the above calculations.

John
 
I guess you are right, I was remiss in not mentioning the compulsory safety warning.

I only mentioned it because I had a recent mishap with some cyanoacrylate glue and a soldering iron. I didn't realize there was a spot of glue on the joint that I was trying to solder. My eyes burned for hours after that.
 
You may be extremely sensitive to toxic substances. Some people can't use CA or epoxy for that reason. However, the gas produced from the amount used to affix components is more than 1000 times less than the average fart, which is 36 mL (http://www.heptune.com/farts.html).

John
 

Not exactly sure why you used that particular form of measurement, but ok

You're right, there was significantly more glue on the joint I soldered than that. I'm just saying be careful and use common sense (unlike me). It could save your eyesight
 
All kidding aside. It would be absolutely foolish to expose your corneas to significant CA monomer. It polymerizes almost instantly in contact with tissue. Fortunately, the conjunctiva regenerates well, but sometimes painfully. That's a warning your body gives you.

John
 
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