Wireless activate and supply power to 12V Solenoid Valve

Hi, I have very little electronics knowledge and am trying to figure out how to wireless activate a 12VDC Solenoid Valve and also power it. Here is a link to the valved I am trying to activate.

https://www.dudadiesel.com/choose_item.php?id=2WJ40040N

Here is a link to the transmitter/receiver I am trying to activate it with.

**broken link removed**

The valve is normally closed and needs to be opened for literally 1/5 of a second to release the air which will be around 300psi. After calling valve company they said it takes .833 amps for this to happen and of course it is a 12VDC valve.

My plan was to use a 10 cell AA battery holder like this one

**broken link removed**

I read that 8 AA batteries would give me 12 Volts but was wondering if I went up to 15V with 10 AA batteries if that would help.

If you read in the comments section of the key chain remote you will see about four posts down someone that modified the remote so it will close the circuit when button is pressed and open the circuit as soon as you release the button. Figured this would be a good mod if I could find someone to do it.
Again, thank you in advance for the help as I have very little electronics/wiring knowledge.

If the AA cells are alkaline you get 15V, which may or may not damage the valve solenoid depending on its characteristics and the cell resistance (I think damage is most unlikely if it's only powered briefly). If they're NiMH or NiCd you get ~ 12.5V; a safer bet. Someone else may be able to advise you on the Tx/Rx mod.

I would run with the suggestion from alec_t and use NiMh or NiCd batteries. That keeps your voltage around 12 volts and affords a nice little rechargable battery pack. That should work out quite well.

The mentioned hack should work just fine. I use a few 4 channel versions here at work and they have a jumper to make them momentary or latch. The modification should be quite simple and easy to do.

The only remaining thing I would add is a simple diode (1N4002 or 1N4003) across the solenoid coil. This is easily done and I can provide a picture if need be. Since this stuff is not your forte, I won't get into the why but it would be a good thing to do.

Ron

...and the polarity of that diode is important. The cathode has to be connected to the + side of the coil; otherwise the diode will short out the coil (albeit briefly, until the diode fries!).

alec_t said:

...and the polarity of that diode is important. The cathode has to be connected to the + side of the coil; otherwise the diode will short out the coil (albeit briefly, until the diode fries!).

Click to expand...

I plan to supply a picture. Based on what the OP posted I see no reason to get into anodes and cathodes. Later today, after work, I'll make up a cartoon. Take the guesswork out.

Ron

Good idea, Ron. The pic will obviously need to show which end of a diode is what.

That wireless control thing looks like it has an On function and an Off function - doesn't the OP want a short pulse?

Assuming yes, and assuming that the receiver resets itself if you drop the power to it, you could put a N/C relay contact in series with the battery and power the coil from the receiver output (with a delay). So when the ON button is pressed, the solenoid is powered; after a short delay (governed by the resistor & capacitor & the relay turn on voltage) the power to the receiver is turned off and so is the solenoid; after another short delay (the cap discharging through the relay coil) the power is restored to the receiver (which hopefully has reset itself).

HI,

You can use HOLTEK 212E/D with wireless module like 433Mhz and it is simple circuit you can add more switches..!!

OK, If you want only one switch to activate then IR LED with TSOP 1738 will also work fine, (Google them.)

Hi Ya Dougy

My take when I saw this:

The valve is normally closed and needs to be opened for literally 1/5 of a second to release the air which will be around 300psi.

Click to expand...

Was that the OP just wants the solonoid active for the duration of button press or about 200 mSec. Yeah, we could get cool and if they really want say 200 mSec. come up with a one shot design using a timer like a 555 and so on. I tend to think that considering the OP does not work in electronics or have electronics as a hobby the simple approach is to hack the receiver as mentioned in the OP's link. Tap the button and a short burst of air.

As a side note with winter coming up here and shorter days I may buy a few for the house. When the wife and I leave for work in the morning it is dark. Hell, using one of them she could turn outside security lights on and off from inside the house and her truck. At $18 USD the simple one channel version is pretty cheap. I may order a few.

Ron

Hey guys, OP here, on the second link in the OP if you click on customer comments there is a modification done but someone that would change the remote to be on only when "on" button is pressed. Would the mod he is talking about work? Thanks again for the replies

Hi Ron,

Reloadron said:

that the OP just wants the solonoid active for the duration of button press or about 200 mSec.

Click to expand...

What I was saying is that the buttons on the remote are marked "ON" and "OFF" - so one could assume that the buttons do their labelled function, and don't output a short pulse. So you'd need to push the ON and then push the OFF (with maybe a delay in between if the receiver has blanking built in).

Reloadron said:

Yeah, we could get cool and if they really want say 200 mSec. come up with a one shot design using a timer like a 555 and so on. I tend to think that considering the OP does not work in electronics or have electronics as a hobby the simple approach is to hack the receiver as mentioned in the OP's link. Tap the button and a short burst of air.

Click to expand...

The pic I posted is very simple - it's the receiver the OP mentioned, the solenoid & diode you mentioned & a relay/diode/resistor/capacitor to provide the delays. So it is 'hack the receiver' mentioned + a teeny bit more.

atattack said:

Hey guys, OP here, on the second link in the OP if you click on customer comments there is a modification done but someone that would change the remote to be on only when "on" button is pressed. Would the mod he is talking about work? Thanks again for the replies

Click to expand...

Sounds like it's worth a shot

Does anyone know for sure if this will work? Thanks again for replies, would hate to buy this and not work out.

Looking at the comments of the person who did the hack I have every reason to believe it will work:

This unit will serve with a simple modification. If you open up the receiver by removing two screws, you will find the 18-pin PT2272-L4 controller IC. Pin 12 of this IC latches high whenever the "ON" button of the transmitter is pressed, driving a transistor which drives the relay coil and closes the contacts. The high output remains on pin 12 until the "OFF" button is pressed. However, pin 17, the "VT" or "valid transmission" pin, goes high whenever either button is pressed, and stays high only while that button is pressed, which is perfect for my garage door opener. So I simply moved the base resistor for the driver transistor from pin 12 to pin 17, and now the relay closes when either button is pressed, but only while the button is pressed.

Click to expand...

The key here is the data sheet for the controller. Looking at the data sheet what the guy did makes sense. Matter of fact there are likely better hacks but his should work just fine.

While I have never used that board I have used this specific board in many projects. This is a 4 channel board and using jumpers I can select latched or momentary operation for any chosen channel. The obvious downside is the cost is about $80 USD. I have used it through concrete walls and at distances of 300 feet plus.

Anyway, the board you are considering should work with the mentioned hack. Actually it should work with either button pressed in a momentary action. Output as long as the button is pressed.

Ron