240VAC 50Hz 160LED Chandelier - How to turn it on?

[bigal]

And 100 x 22ma = 2.2 A not 22 A

Edit: I think you need to read up on series and parallel circuits, and maybe not attempt this at all if you still think that a series chain of LEDs will take 2.2 amps.

Also, just buy some fairly lights - dont reinvent the wheel

 

[Fluence]

I will not buy already built lights. :<

The amperage for what i've understand i should not have any trouble with that, but then to not use the 345V on the 115 LED i should wire then up individualy, and that would look bad to have that many wires in the ceiling, but i guess there's no choise... LED really have some big limitations.

Anyway, yes i'm a little obsessed by LED, but my next obsession is going to be OLED and optic fiber, but that's gonna be when i've finished all the LED projects i have in mind. :>

 

[colin55]

if one LED goes down, all the other LED will down too.

Of course my circuit has 3v6 zeners across each LED and 22R resistors so that if any LED dies, the two other LEDs in parallel will take over and the zener will start to take current.
My circuit is very complex but then it is a professional design and is used in freezer cabinets.
It has to be reliable. The life of the LEDs at 17mA is 100,000 hours and this represents more than 5 years. The advantage of a LED strip over a fluorescent is the LED strip does not lose brightness. The fluorescent at -24degrees C lasts less than 6 months before fading to half brightness.

 

[Hero999]

If you're powering the LEDs directly from the mains you need to use well insulated mains cable (preferably double sheathed), not just normal hook up wire.

The LEDs need to be well insulated, you need to cover each soldered connection on each leg in heat shrink, then cover both legs and the bottom 3mm of the LED in another layer of heat shink. The heat shrink mush be adhesive lined so it's not possible to slip off.

The rectifier circuit needs to be in its own plastic box and the cables going in and out need a proper strain relief.

There needs to be a fuse to prevent a fire, if a short circuit happens.

LEDs normally fail closed circuit, I don't know what the forward voltage of a failed LED is though, maybe it stays near 3.2V and it just stops working? I've no idea. All I can say is that if you de-rate the LEDs enough, then none of them should fail.