I have been, only see one unverified report of a Russian soldier claiming that he was sent to the line with a shovel. Since I haven't seen a verified report and you made the claim about Russians, the ball is in your court. Take a swing.
The transmitter detector circuit with 1 LED now has a diode. I tested it on my 65KHz induction heater it works. I tested both detector circuits on our kitchen microwave oven the LEDs do not light up there are no leaks. Both detectors work good with no diode in series with the LED. I'm not sure this proves anything.
Yes all microwave ovens leak but they must be below the safety agency power density at a certain distance.
Initial designs were cautioned against users with pacemakers until they learned how to shield their designs better.
I have an e-field meter to prove it if you want data. But the LED is a good tool with a ferrite coil. The Faraday cage is pretty good too but not nearly as good as a Lingren EMI 2-stage copper gazebo cage rated > -120 dB that can block all radio signals below a threshold.
Considering that a 65 mW LED at a rated current of 20 mA when dim they only draw < 10% of this power so it is more or the same as your Wifi Router antenna. (don't stare at it in close range for along time to prevent glaucoma and cataracts. )
Where I used to work, the microwave had a problem. We put it on a work bench with a fluorescent light about 4' above it. We took the cover off and hit the power switch to see what we could determine.
When the fluorescent light lit up, we decided that was enough of that! Turned out the door switch was gummed up.
Where I used to work, the microwave had a problem. We put it on a work bench with a fluorescent light about 4' above it. We took the cover off and hit the power switch to see what we could determine.
When the fluorescent light lit up, we decided that was enough of that! Turned out the door switch was gummed up.
5 mW/cm FSD is about 10% brightness of a 5 mm 65 mW LED with a 1cm diam ferrite coil proving LED's can be useful if calibrated like this meter was for peak power(?) but that is 500 mW/m right? NO "near field" is not linear farther than multiple wavelengths and is inverse squared lower.
The light intensity is somewhat linear to current for FL tubes which for high impedance is proportional to voltage and thus e-field in V/m so if you had a diode to detect the intensity ratio to maximum and measure the meter length of the tube, you can easily measure the e-field and probably find that old 40W tube was running dim enough to see but not bright enough to blind you after decades of use from cataracts.
The canary in the mineshaft is bloodshot eyes. At high energy levels it is fainting.
Why would you think that?, much more likely is the magnetic field from the transformer - in the same way you can walk under huge pylons with a fluorescent tube and it lights up, no RF there.
It's another classic example of supposedly 'testing' leakage, when you're doing no such thing at all.
As I've said all along, unless you're using a properly designed and calibrated leakage tester, then you're completely wasting your time - and it's EXTREMELY unlikely that a microwave oven will leak (above that legally allowed) unless there's severe physical damage to it.
5 mW/cm FSD is about 10% brightness of a 5 mm 65 mW LED with a 1cm diam ferrite coil proving LED's can be useful if calibrated like this meter was for peak power(?) but that is 500 mW/m right? NO "near field" is not linear farther than multiple wavelengths and is inverse squared lower.
Unless it's accurately calibrated, and used correctly, then it's completely useless. As I recall, our professional (calibrated yearly) tester at work had to operated 50mm away from the oven - to facilitate this, it had a cone on the end, and you ran the end of the cone along the door seams etc. ensuring the correct distance.
We were legally obliged, and a condition of our microwave oven service certification, to have it (expensively) calibrated yearly, and any of the oven manufacturers we supported were allowed to make surprise visits and check the calibration certificate. For that reason the certificates were kept in the box containing the meter
The only manufacturer who ever checked was Sharp Electronics, and that was because the Sharp TLO (Technical Liaison Officer) was a fairly frequent caller - a nice guy called Mark Baxendale (nothing to do with tone controls ).
When I was 18 years old I dug a 2 ft deep hole with a post hole digger then put an 8 ft long fluorescent light bulb in the hole then filled hole with soil. Then I tied a 500 ft kite string between 2 trees then slid pencil lead back and forth on the white string until it was black. Every day about 5 pm we had a 10 minute thunder storm I could see it coming 15 miles away over the corn fields. I already had kite adjusted perfect to fly on its own tied to the tip end of the fluorescent bulb. When storm was 15 miles away every time lightning flashed the fluorescent bulb flashed also. The closer the storm got the brighter the light bulb flashed. I could stand in the barn and watch and not get rained on light bulb was 150 ft away. When the storm was very close the light bulb stayed on and near by lightning made very bright light bulb flashes. When wind speed picked up to 25 mph kite always crashed then the show was over.
I use to shoot Estes rockets into the sky during thunder storms it would aways make lightning strikes to the yard then BOOM loud as dynamite. Rocket engines came in 3 packs I could aways get 3 lightning strikes to the yard. Lightning always followed the rocket smoke trail to the yard.
When I was 18 years old I dug a 2 ft deep hole with a post hole digger then put an 8 ft long fluorescent light bulb in the hole then filled hole with soil. Then I tied a 500 ft kite string between 2 trees then slid pencil lead back and forth on the white string until it was black. Every day about 5 pm we had a 10 minute thunder storm I could see it coming 15 miles away over the corn fields. I already had kite adjusted perfect to fly on its own tied to the tip end of the fluorescent bulb. When storm was 15 miles away every time lightning flashed the fluorescent bulb flashed also. The closer the storm got the brighter the light bulb flashed. I could stand in the barn and watch and not get rained on light bulb was 150 ft away. When the storm was very close the light bulb stayed on and near by lightning made very bright light bulb flashes. When wind speed picked up to 25 mph kite always crashed then the show was over.
I use to shoot Estes rockets into the sky during thunder storms it would aways make lightning strikes to the yard then BOOM loud as dynamite. Rocket engines came in 3 packs I could aways get 3 lightning strikes to the yard. Lightning always followed the rocket smoke trail to the yard.