At most if the machine did need a specific 120 volt source all you need to do is measure the voltage through the machine to the common line. If you get near zero volts nothing in the machine needs 120 volt power. If you either get 120 volts or 208 volts then its just a matter of choosing which power lead is connected to the supply line that gives you 120 volts in reference to the common point.
What the two power lines supply is the voltage that the circuits that are connected across them get. If no other internal circuits are between either line and the ground then the ground is just a safety line and not a power carrying line so its voltage differential between it and the power lines in of no concern.
Unless its a really old machine all modern machines that have a need for both 120 and 240 volts have 4 wire power connection systems not three wire.
I'll give that a try... I think the reason for the split voltage is that its basically 2 devices stacked... washers can run on 120v and the gas dryers do but the electric dryers (like this one) require the extra power... I think whirlpool gears them up for 120v so they can use many of the same parts across gas and electric models..
Based on what you posted I am going to venture a guess that your building power or at least your panel you measured is configured like the attached drawing. This is a 3 phase delta with a wild leg (sometimes called other names for the leg). That is the only way I can see you getting the numbers you see. That would explain panel neutral to one leg as 120 and another leg to neutral as 208 as well as leg to leg as 240 volts.
What I don't get is why the panel is configured that way. Generally you would have the two phases common to the neutral run to the panel for 120-0-120 rather than the high leg on one side giving you 120-0-208. The only need I could see is if they used 1/2 the panel for 208 volt lighting? Beats me? Additionally you mentioned two Brown wires while in a high leg configuration generally orange is used to denote the high leg (phase B in my attached cartoon). Not to say it is always done that way.
Anyway as tcmtech suggest what you could do is place the leg of your machine needing 120 volts on the 120 volt leg to neutral. You will still have your 240 volts line to line (phase to phase). You just need to be damn sure you get the right side or you will feed 208 volts to the 120 volt requirements of your machine. That or find the source for the panel (likely a transformer if a large facility) and run your machine off what would be phases A and C using the phase center tapped neutral. That would involve a new service line and disconnect. However, given the choice I would use tcmtech's suggestion.
Anyway, that is my guess as to why you see what you see. Don't take it as gospel.
<EDIT> After reading your post again when it comes to washer / drier systems the washer is generally 120 VAC but the drier uses 120 VAC for the motor and 240 VAC for the heater elements. Thus the longer drying time. Is this building commercial or residential? Anyway,if I am guessing right as to the configuration you will need 120 VAC for the drier motor. </EDIT>
Ron
It means you have part of a three phase system. Just two legs of it. If you need 240 volt and you have 240 volt I don't see where the concern is. Typically any machine or appliance that use a 240 volt source and only have a three prong plug use the ground for just a ground and nothing else.
Connect your two power leads of your appliance across the 240 volt feed lines and the ground pin to the common/ground point and don't worry about it.
I just moved into a new building and I'm having some trouble adding a 240v line in for my stackable washer and dryer....
Br find the source for the panel (likely a transformer if a large facility) and run your machine off what would be phases A and C using the phase center tapped neutral. That would involve a new service line and disconnect. However, given the choice I would use tcmtech's suggestion.
Ron
Amazon.com: VOD 5000 - HEAVY DUTY 5000 WATTS TRANSFORMER TO BE USED IN 220/240V COUNTRIES WITH 110V EQUIPMENT: Electronics
for the high leg side... any thoughts?
>> Isn't it as simple as wiring it as shown below:
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Hi Mike,
It seems so... But I think the majority of the dryer controls run off the 120 side... the gas dryers don't have 240 so they make them this way so they can share common parts and reduce cost... I think the only thing getting the 240v is the heating element and I'd guess it's probably triggered by a relay run by the 120v side.
I can't read schematics very well but I did find these online:
**broken link removed**
**broken link removed**
I can scan a higher res if anyone thinks this would be of any value or help - they are kind of hard to read like this...
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