Well, disk drives (the 5-1/4" floppies) from yesteryear had both threads.
Car fuel line (recent issue 2000 GM Vehicle): 5/8" the nut on the fuel line. 20 mm, the nut on the filter. The aftermarket replacement had a 19 mm nut. The 20 mm Flare nut wrench was like 4x more expensive than a 19 mm
Back in the 80's I used en end-mounted socket drive for my oil filter. I bought a Beck-Arnly replacement filter and it needed an English wrench.
The 1974 Pinto had a mix of fasteners. Most engine was metric, most body was english.
I bought some shaft collars for an English shaft, they had metric screws.
There is copper tubing and copper refrigeration tubing. A 7/8" copper fitting bought in an HVAC supply place is a standard 3/4 plumbing fitting. Pipe and tubing is just nuts.
Bristol set screws. Knobs on Electronic instruments. Those are really nice.
Lumber - you have dimensional lumber and the stuff like a 2x4 which is raw.
Just recently I had to add a significant amount of Torx to my collection. I need to pull a steering wheel.
Just recently bought a heat gun. A cream of the crop variety. Steinel. First, some attachemnts use Posidrive screws to hold the attachments and others use a flat/Phillips combo head. In this case the right hand doesn't know what the left hand is doing. They appeared to upgrade the thickness of the material to 1.4mm holding the insert nut compared to other attachments using the same nut.
Machining by hand (switchable readout) metric dimensions with English cutters is a real pain. I really don't mind 0.001" of an inch increments.
In the states we had a new road that was exclusively metric signage. It didn't last long.
Feet is nice because you can estimate by walking. A shoe-length is about a foot. An inch is about your knuckle to the end of your thumb. A cup is about a "cup" of coffee.
But 1/8, 1/16. 1/32. 1/64, 1/128, 1/50, 1/100 of an inch?
I didn't know this until I sent it back because the nut was lost. One tiny tap and the nut disengages and I could not find one for 1.4 mm thick material.