Mosfets drain (n type the tab on to-220 mosfets)

[MrDEB]

I want to attach all 8 tabs to the circuit board as heat sink but can I attach all 8 on together on the circuit board?

 

[For The Popcorn]

I corrected the mosfet layouts and pasted the footprint from post#121.

"Pasted" makes no sense.

You need to DOWNLOAD the file in post #121. Then open it as an EasyEDA file and save the footprint.

Then you need to follow EXACTLY the procedure in post #134. You don't know what's important, so you can't decide what steps you can skip.

In short, after you have properly unloaded the footprint from post #121, find whichever version of the schematic goes to the board you are working on. Close all other tabs in EasyEDA other then this ONE TAB so you don't get confused.

Then, for each and every MOSFET, click in the footprint box and UPDATE FOOTPRINT. Search for the footprint from post #121 and select it. If blue lines from ALL OF THE VIAs to pin 2 are not shown, you don't have the right footprint.

After updating the footprint FOR ALL OF THE MOSFETs, save the schematic. Then update the pcb from the top menu bar.

This will replace the existing MOSFET footprints on the board with new ones. You may have to adjust spacing but the new footprints show be in the same place as the originals.....

If any step doesn't work EXACTLY as I have said, STOP. EXPLAIN EXACTLY ALL THE STEPS YOU TOOK TO GET TO THAT POINT AND THE ONES YOU SKIPPED BECAUSE THEY WERE TOO HARD OR YOU THOUGHT THEM UNIMPORTANT.

You could follow all of the steps above with a simple circuit –:draw a schematic with a MOSFET and a few parts connected together, and layout a board to test if the footprint works. Just the way I did to test if the footprint works properly.

My way or the highway. Capiche? .

 

[For The Popcorn]

Since there seems to be much confusion, please download the footprint below and install as described above.

Then update the footprint in the schematic.

Proceed as described above.


Here is my test schematic.

And the board.

There are NO DRC ERRORS.

 

[MrDEB]

I did all that after I deciphered post#141
Almost have new board designed
THANKS

 

[MrDEB]

well, after rearranging parts, I finally got a board free of DRC errors.
Using Popcorns footprint solved several issues

 

[MrDEB]

Here is a screen shot

 

[For The Popcorn]

Looks better, but could you please learn how to export a board to a PNG file, or make a close-cropped 3D view? At least crop your screenshots to include only the relevant area?

I'm not a fan of traces at odd angles - it just looks bad.

You might want to add some mounting holes. You might find some labels useful too.

 

[MrDEB]

Sorry about the screenshot. I have yet to clean up the crooked traces.
I wanted to see how much it would cost to have the boards assembled.

 

[For The Popcorn]

Start by shinking your board – tighten up the spacing on the sides between the MOSFETs and connectors. Tighten up the spacing on the top and bottom ends by moving the connectors in.

You'll pay extra for the parts on the bottom side of the board. They like to assemble one side only..

You will need to illustrate EXACTLY how you expect the MOSFETs to be mounted. It may be clear to you what you want, but absolutely do not count on the assemblers to understand what you expect without providing detailed instructions and illustrations.

Through-hole parts incur extra charges for assembly – they must be hand-placed and soldered.

I don't believe JLCPCB will assemble less than 10 boards of this complexity and low parts cost. If the components are costly, they may opt to make only two, but in this case, you'll be paying the component costs and fab costs for 10 boards even if you order fewer boards assembled.

I would not recommend automated assembly of this board. At best, you'll be paying a lot for 10 copies of an oversized board. At worst, you'll be paying a lot for 10 boards that don't work. Understanding the assembly process and limitations is important to a cost-effective successful assembly job.

BACKGROUND

JLC's assembly service is geared towards single-sided surface mount assembly. Parts will be placed on the boards by pick & place machines. Each pick and place machine contains reels of components – maybe 50 reels per pick and place machine. Parts that JLC calls BASIC are kept loaded on the pick and place machines. Parts that JLC calls EXTENDED must be loaded into a pick and place machine for YOUR board. This is extra labor, and some parts may be lost when installing and removing the reels. Extra labor equals extra costs TO YOU.

But if each pick and place machine can only hold 50 reels, and JLC has hundreds of BASIC parts, how can this work? Your board doesn't travel through one pick and place machine – it travels through a long line of pick and place machines, where each machine places a few parts or none, until all of the parts are placed. What happens if you have used parts that are not a part of JLC's program? NOTHING – those positions will not be populated.

After all the surface mount parts are placed, they go through a reflow oven to flow the solderpaste, soldering the surface mount parts to the board. Note that there is a limited time between applying the solderpaste and reflowing the solder, perhaps 30 minutes or less, so the entire surface mount assembly is quick.

What about through-hole parts? I believe that these are all hand-soldered. This takes time which equates to extra charges.

 

[MrDEB]

I am attempting to shrink the board size. Searching ??? for a wire to board header with screws crimping the wires.
Thinking of only two headers instead of three.
Yes, scrunching the board down in size.
I hope to purchase the Mosfets and install them myself.

 

[For The Popcorn]

At some point, you specified a PIC18F2221-E/SO micro. This older PIC isn't in stock at JLC, but as no special features are used, updating it to something in stock shouldn't be a big issue.

 

[For The Popcorn]

Pluggable terminal blocks. Avaliable cheap from Tayda Electronics, or any distributor. Make sure the pitch matches the footprint.

 

[MrDEB]

I have a supply of 18f2221, so when I order the boards, I will remove the pic from the BOM file.
The one section of the schematic I question is the transistor configuration for the dimming of ports A.0 - A.2
I have caps only on the back side, so I may put them on top layer.
Looking at the two terminal block pictures, I assume the one with screws plugs into the one w/o screws?
I'm curious why you mention if the boards work.










i hve

 

[For The Popcorn]

I'm curious why you mention if the boards work.

Really? Design issues. Layout issues. Component selection issues. Documentation issues. "Oops, I forgot" issues.

That the board will be properly soldered together using specified components in an expected way.... this is not a concern at all.


If the meaning of "pluggable terminal blocks" isn't self-evident, go look them up. There are variations, so look at the picturess and read the descriptions. NOTE: these are available from many manufacturers and often look identical – but one company's pluggable section WII NOT plug into a different manufacturer's header section.

 

[MrDEB]

Well hopefully, I have corrected all the issues on the layout.
Components, only thing I think I might change is a TH transistor if I assemble the board

 

[MrDEB]

Lets try this attached file

 

[MrDEB]

hopefully this works

 

[For The Popcorn]

I'm not going to comment on all the different versions of you board. Ain't nobody got time for that.

You need to pay attention to details and look with a critical eye. Look at the 2D and 3D images of the board.

The first glaring thing I notice is that the left edge of the board isn't square. It's noticeably wider at the top than the bottom. The jaggy board edge line shows this. I'm not even sure how you managed to do this



What's with all the extra space at the top of the board? You're paying for that.

The power connector is almost off the board on the bottom. I doubt it passes DRC. I would move those connectors up and shorten the board.

Your top plane is cut off at the corner. Learn how to edit points in fills. It doesn't impact how the board works, but it's sloppy.



Lots of traces at odd angles. It's just esthetics, but it shows a lack of care.

I'd label all the pins of the terminal blocks. Make all the labels read the right direction and be spaced away from the components.

Mounting holes?

 

[MrDEB]

I fixed all you indicated. I decided to assemble all the parts myself after I recheck the board design and order just the boards.
Too many variables in having the board hose do the assembly

 

[For The Popcorn]

Did you look the board over closely? You have some clearance problems that may not fail DRC, but will make soldering tough.

 

[For The Popcorn]

Have you ever started watching a mini-series in the middle, then missed the finale, so you're left wondering what happened? Did the young lovers get married and ride off happily into the sunset? Did the evil king chop off their heads? You'll never know.

It's much the same way with MrDEB. You never know how something turned out. Unless perhaps it was unsuccessful. Then the posts continue or maybe a new thread appears. I have to say, helping him is most unrewarding. Sigh.