Les:
Your schematic is wrong, again!
The alarm outputs (lock and unlock) are negative triggers not positive triggers. They really should be called ~LOCK (NOT LOCK) and ~UNLOCK (NOT UNLOCK).
It also MIGHT be REASONABLE to keep LOCK POWER and ALARM POWER separate. Do not know about that one. At least show it separately.
Pros or "Good things" (separate power): You'll know if an actuator is bad because alarm will not work, but the OP will likely know anyway because of buttons. If actuator wiring shorts, alarm still works without the door locks.
Cons "Bad things" (separate power): Can not think of one.
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keepitsimplestupid said:
Put your ohmmeter on pins 30 and 87a on each relay and check for a brief open condition when you toggle lock and unlock respectively.
the OP TS said:
Its zero on the pin 30 and 87a on each relay
This assumes that nothing is connected to 30. (In baby step world: nothing connected to 30, 87a and 87) AND the ohmmeter is connected between pins 30 and 87a. Initially, the pins would appear shorted and would open with either a LOCK/UNLOCK command respectively from the alarm system.
keepitsimplestupid said:
Put your ohmmeter on pins 30 and 87a on each relay and check for a brief open condition when you toggle lock and unlock respectively.
For the purposes of translation:
PRO is defined as "good things"
CONS is defined as "bad things"
No contractions. "do not" is used instead of don't.
the OP/TS is defined as "The original poster" or the "Thread Starter".