Project: Simplest shocker

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Technically they're rated for a few mA, I think, but since they have lousy current limiting, you can draw 0.5A out of it.

But whatever, a few mA or half an amp- You're STILL dead, it's only how toasty you get.

By the way, more on that, flybacks CAN be lethal too, look up ZVS driver for flybacks, those things can push more than 100W or so into a flyback.
 
I've been searching for a citcuit that can produce higher continuouse electricity from a battery.But this circuit can only produce a flash of elecricity.Do you have a circuit like that please?
 
Firnagzen said:
But whatever, a few mA or half an amp- You're STILL dead, it's only how toasty you get.
No, a few mA and you'll probably live but half an amp and you're almost certainly dead.
 
help me

hi I'm looking to build a shocker ( spark generator) too
please send me a circuit and schematics compilitly
thanks



 
Want one that works? Buy it ready made!

I've read so many threads from people who claim they have a simple shocker circuit that works but I don't think any of the designers have actually tried building it. There are even more postings from peole trying to get shocker circuits working and not being able to.

The reason is, the simple circuits just don't work. If the shock is even there, it's so tiny, you can't even feel it. What's the point of that? I think it might be due to the lack of AC current (or pulsed DC). Without that, the transformer doesn't transmit the current.

Some sites have designs for more complex circuits which would probably work but you'd spend quite a bit of time and money getting all of the bits and putting them together then trouble shooting.

I bought one of these, took it to pieces and modified it for what I was after:
*****************************
**broken link removed**
Electric Shock Roulette

Play Russian Roulette without the life threatening hazards!
Place your finger on the roulette machine and spin. Someone will receive a mild electric shock.
Up to 4 players, requires 3 x 'AAA' batteries - use SB-2426 x 2.
*******************************

It works a treat!!
 
i think the simplest shocker apart from a piezo igniter would be an ignition coil. just get a 9 volt battery and attach the negative led to the ignition coil and then swipe the positive lead over the coils positive terminal. almost 10 kv. the only thing is though ignition coils also put out quite a bit of voltage out of the primary as well so don't touch the battery leads while your doing it
 
What happen if i input the output from the 1st stepup trafo to primary of the 2nd trafo? Can this multiply the voltage significantly? If the output from the 1st trafo is 400 VAC, with the 2nd trafo (1:100) we will get 40000 volt at 2nd trafo output.
 
The insulation can't withstand voltages that high, that's the main problem with 'serious' high voltages, if the voltage is high enough everything becomes a conductor. Same thing with magnetics. Under a strong enough magnetic field everything is magnetic (there's video of magnetically levitating frogs out on the net)
 
14. To make more painful, i've maybe crazy idea. Why just make 2 or more unit of this thread's project. But all are powered by same power supply. If for example, we make 2 unit, we have 2 independent output (from trafos), right? I think It's clever to put these 2 output in series, so if for example, one output is 480volt, by putting in series, we got 960volt (480V x2)
15. I also interested in the swatter ( electro racket to stun mosquito/flies)
-It use just only a transistor and a resistor for providing oscilator, is full sinus is produced by this oscilator?
16. I also interested in the swatter ( electro racket to stun mosquito/flies)
-At the secondary side (where the big capacitor is), a diode (halfwave rectifier) is used, i think this is not eficient, and i plan to replace with fullwave rectifier (4 x 1N4007). Can you give comment about this?
17. How much does TIP31 cost? Is it expensive?
18. There are also TIP31A/B/C , what's the difference with TIP31?
19. Can you suggest "alternative transistor" for TIP31 that maybe cost cheaper?
20. I'm very interested in stunner / spark generator. If i only use 2 AA NIMH battery that each has 1,2 volt 2400mAh, so the total voltage is 2,4volt, can i make strong/deadly stunner? any idea? May be by increasing the capacitors at the output, or use voltage multiplier ( diode and capacitor), or by making many unit and series the output from each trafo. Can you suggest ultimate posibilty strongest stunner, by using only 2,4V ( form 2 NiMH battery)
21. If only use 1 NiMH battery that has voltage 1,2volt 2400mAh, is it posible to make medium stunner?
22. Out of topic, if we compare small adaptor trafo ( for example: 100mA,200mA, 500mA) with larger ampere adaptor trafo (for example: 1A, 5A, 10A trafo). Do they have difference in efficiency? Is larger the ampere of the trafo, the efficiency is better? maybe because of the bigger the diameter of the copper wire of the trafo, the resistance is also decrease, so the resistance loss is smaller. I've also same Nokia handphone adaptors, they have the same size, but the weight is not the same.When in use, the one is hotter than the other, can you explain this?
 
The datasheet for the TIP31 transistor shows that its max allowed voltage is 40V, the max voltage for the TIP31A is 60V, the max voltage for the TIP31B is 80V and the max voltage for the TIP31C is 100V.

Go to the website of any electronic parts distributor to see prices. Digikey sell the TIP31 only if you buy thousands. The TIP31A and TIP31C are $.50US each. The TIP31B is $.60US each.

One or two AA battery cells are too small and don't make much power for long. They cause a camera to make maybe only 50 separate flashes. They need to have the circuit and its transformer designed for their low voltage.

Cheap little adapters are very inefficient. Half their small amount of power is wasted as heat.
Some modern adapters are very small and lightweight but are powerful because they use a high frequency switching circuit.
 
Your idea of using 2 transformers is sound and is used in commercial **broken link removed**.

The problem is with insulation. It's very hard to get components rated for more than a few KV.


Gas stove ignitors run off a 1.5V battery and use a single coil/transformer.

There are also portable UV Insect Killers which use 1 or 2 kV.


Simple
 
CheapSlider said:
Your idea of using 2 transformers is sound and is used in commercial **broken link removed**.
I wonder how that works.

It be interesting to see whether they use a single transformer or a high frequency flyback transformer with another transformer on the output.
 
I always wondered... Do the people who build these shockers. actually test them theirselves, or do the use lab animals (cat, dog, siblings, or any other living creature unfortunate enough to be near by)? I really hate getting zapped. Obviously I get over it, and move on, hopefully won't be so careless in the future. So, from my point of view, deliberately shocking yourself to test the output of these little gadgets would be insane.
 
Hypnotize said:
ok thanks for the info.

Connect a cord from the project and run it under your shirt and make sure the wire does not touch you -use the cord from a phone- at the end of it make two exposed ends. touch the person with it. tada. Shock.

Just dont touch it
 
Sig239 said:
LOL at Oznog!!!! I was just talking about that gesture today at work. I wonder if it means the same thing to you. Please do tell what it means to you.


only means one thing
 
hey i found this somewhere can any one explain: i have all of the components ...


Shocker Instructions

These instructions will show you how to build a 9V-powered shocker; the
parts I specify will generate a quick, minor, non-painful burst, but it
could be adapted easily to increase the power of the "zap".

Parts needed:

1 9V battery
1 10K resistor
1 transformer (Radio Shack #273-1380)
1 relay (Radio Shack #275-241)
1 22F capacitor (Radio Shack #272-1026)
1 momentary switch (suggestion: Radio Shack #275-1571)
1 9V battery connector (Radio Shack #270-325)

Plus a soldering iron, a few bits of wire as needed, and a box to put it in

Total cost, without the soldering iron: about $10.

Here is the circuit itself; sorry that the ASCII representation is so
painful to look at (using high ASCII chars it's a lot more readable):

N.O. N.C.
[=========]
+-----------[-- --]-----------+
| [ / ] |
+-----------[-@@@@@@@-]------+ | (contacts)
(batt) | [ / ] | | +-----------------------o
----------- + [ | ] | | | +--VVVVVV---o
----- - [=========] | | | | (resistor)
| | (relay) | | | |
| --- | | | | |
| v --- (cap) | | +-@@@@@@@@@-+
| --- | | | ========= (transformer)
+---- -----------(-----------+ +--------@@@@@---+
| (switch) | |
+----------------+---------------------------------+

Here is what you experience:

- Press the switch; you will hear a small "click". Hold the switch down
for like a half second. (The capacitor is charging up from the battery.)

- Release the switch, while touching the contacts depicted on the far right
of the diagram; you will hear another small "click" and feel an electric
shock. (The capacitor discharges and the voltage is amplified via the
transformer, to the point that you can feel the zap.)

The explanation of the circuit:

Notice the current loop between the battery, the coil inside the relay
(the relay is the double box, the coil is the "@@@@@@@" inside the
relay), and the switch. The relay is a switch that you flip from one
state to the other by passing current through the coil. In the
"normally closed" (N.C.) state, the capacitor will discharge any and all
power it has collected. In the "normally open" (N.O.) state, the
capacitor connects with the battery and charges up. When you press the
switch, the relay switches to the N.O. position (that's the first "click"
you hear), and the capacitor picks up a charge from the battery. When you
release the button, the relay switches to the N.C. position (the other
"click"), the battery disconnects, and the capacitor discharges, going
through the transformer. The transformer steps up the voltage so that
you can feel the zap; the resistor by the contacts just keeps the current
under control so that the zap doesn't hurt.
 
What is that ASCII crap?!. Why don't you draw a proper schematic in Microsoft Paint or something?

You don't need the capacitor and the transformer. Connect the switch, the relay coil and the battery all in series.
Hold your hand across the switch and when it is released then hundreds of volts will be across it.
 
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