Rant: Stupid "Smart TV" - must have video

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Nigel Goodwin said:
Even if you could, how would it help?.

There's nothing 'stupid' about the TV, it's a TV - so it needs a video signal to work, that's how it's designed, and have been for MANY years (long before LCD's).
Click to expand...

I have a modulator that will take AC-3 encoded audio, but through an HDMI connector. Not the option I was discussing, but the one I initially wanted.
 
Nigel Goodwin said:
it's a TV - so it needs a video signal to work
Click to expand...

Absolutely not. I have 5 CECB boxes, the ones the US government handed out cheap. There were a some audio only stations and they scanned and played as audio only. The CECB "created" Video that caused the station identification to move around the screen. I need to find more definitive info about it.

[ Quote=]KeepItSimpleStupid [/quote]

OK, can you create HDMI AC-3 audio from L/R analog audio?

eTech said:
If you really want to do that...yes. The devices are not expensive.
Click to expand...

They easily go the other way. Not, upconverting L/R analog to AC-3

eTech said:
Now ATSC-3 comes along.
Don't know if your interested but you can take standard L/R audio line and feed it to a Blue Tooth audio transmitter.
Click to expand...

yes, another option.
 

Exactly as I said - a video signal in order to un-mute the sound - what did you think the bouncing ID was?.

You probably don't actually need 'video', most likely you just need suitable sync pulses - and as suggested above, easily done with a PIC.
 
shortbus= said:
not too sure I understand what your saying? They sell the soundbars, etc to make the TV sound better, because of the low quality in set speakers..
Click to expand...

Yes, what's hard to understand? - TV speakers are absolutely crap - the drivers are too small, and the 'cabinet' is pathetic - result appalling sound.

The absolute worst sets was a few models of Samsungs a while back - they not only had tiny elliptical downward facing speakers, but they blanked off 3/4 of the cone area with plastic mouldings, leaving just alittle slot for inaudible sound to 'leak' out.
 
I ordered one of:

VGA test generator
https://tvone.com/filestore/Manuals-Other-Products/Manual-1T-TG-PCHD_TG-DVI.pdf
and one of:

1T-VS-624- TVONE RGB to HDMI Scaler (new in box)

Manual: https://tvone.com/filestore/Manuals-Other-Products/Manual-1T-VS-624.pdf

from ebay. I have to get one power supply and some cables

I don't know if the test generator will keep settings in the absence of power and it appears it can generate a black raster/

Not that it matters yet, but I did find out (Wikipedia) that Toslink can handle AC-3 or Dolby Digital as well as PCM audio.

When it comes time, this is what I would need to work on getting my ATSC modulator to work because it only has an HDMI input.

I don't know if the ATSC standard will accept PCM audio, Based on modulator options, I think it will.

It's based on:

**broken link removed**

So, I guess I don't have to upmix L/R analog to 5.1 AC3 if modulating from a L/R source. AC-3 was an optional feature of the modulator.

Barix https://www.barix.com/product-categories/audio-encoding/instreamer/ and some other ebay sites have a way to send audio
over Ethernet. Barix products are not cheap. Barix has a serial port, I think.

If all goes well, this https://www.hackster.io/news/geoff-s-vt100-terminal-kit-supports-ansi-graphics-79e1c589bfe6 or similar VT100 terminal kit could provide the VGA signal.

Probably if placed on a Rasberry PI could do the other thing I wanted. i.e. To display
FM 101.1
W???
<RDS data>

on the screen in various locations every say 5s. Linux tput https://linux.die.net/man/1/tput may help.

The AM/FM tuner is a dual tuner with RS232 and IR control

I have infrastructure problems at home to accomplish a lot of this. It's not easy running ethernet to the TV, so that's currently wireless. A MOCA https://www.confluentgroup.com/prod...of-2-by-translite?_pos=2&_sid=12f5d88f1&_ss=r adapter (Ethernet over Coax) could work. The Samsung doesn't like wireless anyway. Audio over CAT5 would be an option ifit was easy to run cable to the TV.

Keene (across the pond from me) can do IR over Ethernet. I bought some of their stuff to play with.

The Rasberry PI should be able to handle HDMI-CEC which would be part of another project. I particulary want to be able to mute the TV when the doorbell or phone rings and do some other stuff.

A friend is working on a 28 button touch IR remote and I should be able to obtain development info once it's done. It will allow custom overlays. I'm no where ready for that.

This will be a major project and I have a lot of infrastructure to work on.
First: Will the 'audio only - black raster' work through the TV? If not, there is always Barix with the amplifier or powered speakers.
Second: Get Ethernet behind the TV or at least some CAT6 cables.
Third: Get the tuner mounted in the basement and the active antenna in the attic
Fourth: Upgrade to gigabit Ethernet (2, 3 and 4) are not in any order.
The tuner becomes useable it this point.
Fifth: Get IR to the AM/FM tuner from the TV area

I want to put a compass on the TV antenna. The position readout lags and the controller/readout is also in the basement. It's currently controlled blindly with a IR-RF-IR repeater.

For work with the ATSC modulator, I need a faster network and probably have to put the management network interface on a VLAN. I also need a test signal. The RF modulator has 4 RF channels and can also create 4 channels of IPTV.

I want to put a WEB controlled TV tuner (which I have) on that modulator and I wanted to put two AM/FM tuners on that modulator.

This https://www.silicondust.com/ also becomes an option.

When/If complete, a customized remote would really help.

Then ATSC-3 will come along a mess up the works. All of the other TV's in the house are NTSC with CECB's (Coupon Eligible Converter Boxes) to receive ATSC.

The TV locations in the house were/are:
1. Living room (Samsung 55" HDTV) (ATSC, CABLE, NTSC)
[two telephones via cordless. One for mom.]
[Wireless repeater]
Wired telephone (CAT3 unfortunately) in back of TV
A TV used to have a speakerphone built in.
Now used for a LED for ring and telephone off hook conditions.
Her bed will eventually have access to a wired phone - pulled up from the floor with a string for emergencies..
That will be from a kitchen telephone jack.
2. Master bedroom (CECB)
[telephone via cordless and wired]
[baby monitor parental unit #2, has batteries]
3. Kitchen upstairs (CECB)
Actually located in the hallway where the Samsung is.
[telephone]
4. Kitchen downstairs (CECB)
[telephone via cordless, ceiling wired outlet(unused. Was for a modem), wired land line Bell.
[network switch]
[Wireless AP]
[NAS server]
[baby monitor baby unit near cordless phone]
[UPS in progress. One did exist]
5. "My shop" (I had a VCR there that could broadcast on RF NTSC channel 4) (CECB)
I used to use the VCR tuner for NTSC.
I used an Amiga 1084 monitor, but it died
Channel 4 inserter was removed and never put back. It was upgraded)
[wired telephone outlet (was for a modem)
[laser printer - wired]
Inkjet printer - wireless
6. "Dad's shop" or Slingbox - (CECB) - now used for antenna signal monitoring/troubleshooting
Also had a VCR
7. Rec room (never upgraded to ATSC)
[wired telephone]
[Color laser to be installed - wireless initially]
[FAX as part of printer to be installed]
8. Porch (never upgraded to ATSC
Windows Only)
[wired telephone]
9. Ethernet controlled HDTV tuner (PAL, ATSC, NTSC)
Not hooked up yet
10. Spare bedroom - called "Back bedroom"
A TV exists there. No CECB. No RG-6. Low voltage plate exists.
It once had dual twin lead for TV
[might have wired telephone - unsure]
11. Small bedroom
No TV, No RG-6, No Low voltage plate. telephone. Has cordless phone base station and answering machine.
Had a PERS medical alarm - not used.
[wired telephone] - Used to have a cordless phone.
UPS for cordless phones.
12. Laundry room
[wired bell]
DSL modem
[Baby monitor parental unit #1, has rechargeable batteries]
Most of the TV's came from the garbage can and fixed.

The TV distribution system also went south, Right now, I am just using three locations with a single splitter for the living room and the master bedroom. If I need the downstairs kitchen, i have to move a cable (quick connect).

So, it used to be pretty cool. I could take the laptop and watch TV on the porch, TV or living room. I could record a TV program and then stream it anywhere in the house. I used to be able to control a light via an RF X-10 transmitter in the car or a RF tranmitter in the kitchen.
The ECM motor in the furnace killed the X-10 system.

I was going to install a Webmountain automation server to help control the outside light from a web page. i could then, possibly controlit from my phone.

I used to have a doorbell that rang a doorbell down the steps. It broke. It would work for the front and back door, The back door had a wireless transmitter. Plans were to upgrade to an alarm grade wireless transmitter for the back doorbell. I used to have a home made LED lighted doorbell for the front door. That broke - solder joint.

I was going to install dxsr-1608 a https://www.nortekcontrol.com/produ...less/dxsr-1508-supervised-8-channel-receiver/ 8 channel receiver to handle:
1. the back doorbell
2. A non-installed hot water recirculator
2a) primary activation would have been a motion detector in the primary bathroom
2b) Webpage
2c) Wireless transmitter of some sort in the kitchen.
(Might be X-10 RF to UPB)
(This would also control an outside light too)
You would activate the transmitter before doing dishes.
The laundry room is too close to the water heater.
Might add a wired control for the downstairs kitchen.
3) Would be a new application, (Nurse call)
"Nurse call" is primarily accomplished with the cordless phone in intercom mode. The "off hook" and ring condition is monitored by a LED on top of the TV. I wanted off hook and not talking for 15 minutes. The "baby monitor" repeats the distinctive ring to the laundry and bedroom. I can also take a parental unit outside when working outside. I can barely hear my cell phone, but it's a poor bck-up option.

I purchased a Bellman&Symfon Home visit system https://bellman.com/en/product/#b-24089 for two reasons. I need a better alrm clock and this supports: LED flashing, audio and a "bed shaker". It also supports different transmitters for the heard of hearing which I am.
It will initially be able to summon me with a panic transmitter.

Later, I plan to interface a wearable transmitter to the dxsr-1608 which would activate the Bellman transmitter. This would be accessibleif mom was in the wheelchair and dropped her phone.

I've wired the dxsr for relay outputs, low battery and supervision and silence. it's just not mounted or connected. The system also includes a UPB to Ethernet interface. I'll also connect the wired baby monitor, "baby unit" with no batteries to a UPS.

I also need to research door lock (access control), video doorbell and vertical blind control.

I also need surveillance, My QNAP NAS has provision for 4 cameras. One is enabled by default. The rest require licenses.
I need a comprehensive access control system that can handle hospice, meals on wheels, doctors, caretakers etc.
I want the vertical blind system to do tilt and open operations and also be astronomic controlled. The IR custom remote would be very useful here too, so might an Android tablet,

I need a comprehensive monitoring system for things like:
1) Water leaks and Infiltration
2) Door prop - e.g. refrigerator or freezer doors.
3) UV filter needs changing
4) Shed door left open 1 hour after dusk. (Astronomic timer)

This got a little out of hand.

So...
1. I didn't realize that HDMI would not handle audio only.
2. PC HDMI and HD HDMI are too different things.
3. It looks as if I don't have to upconvert to 5.1 AC3 for the modulator.
4. I need an HDMI test signal source for the modulator.
5. I need gigabit Ethernet for the ATSC modulator.
6. I think I have to put the management port of the modulator on a VLAN.

Next test - Can I do audio only with Black raster?
 
One of the other things I'm trying to work on is a dimmer.

I'm currently using one of these:



Which is a credensa or (cord dimmer) with a locator LED. The LED is inverse to the brightness of the LAMP and the LED is off when the incadesent lamp dies. I want to use the same physical control, but for a 6000 Lumen LED.

it's currently controlling a 100/200/300 3-way Mogul base bulb in a 1950'S floor lamp. It's set at 300 W. I have the lamp and the Meanwell LED dimmer. Just haven't started wiring it up yet.

I'm planning to bring out 3 wires for the slide pot and 3 wires for a bi-color LED. Two colors and a common. I'll use a 6 wire telephone cord to a RJ14? pigtail. The POT will go to a potentiometer interface module and give me 0-10V. The commercial module should be able to detect an open. An open will happen because, the slide pot has an integral switch.

The limits in the module will control the power to the LED at some voltage. A lot of dimmers are 1-10V because they don't turn fully off. A relay is necessary to get 0%.

Another module will invert that signal. With a custom interface, I should be able to drive the locator LED (The one on the dimmer).
The locator LED is important. It could be solid on though.

Anyway, that's the plan.

Now, I don't know how to do this or if it's even possible.

I would like to have a wall-mounted touch screen that would work as an external controller. let;s say that when the handheld control is used, the locator LED is red and driven inverse to the 6000 lumen LED.

Now, lets say you touched the control on the wall and set the lamp to 10%. The locator LED would now be yellow and be at 100-10%
If the hand control is "moved", it would be detected and the LED on the handheld unit would turn RED and be at 100-(manual dimming%).

So, if the touch screen took over, the LED would indicate what the manual intensity would be.

It could just be RED for manual and YELLOW for remote. The point is, moving either control changes the mode from manual to remote and vice versa without a man/remote switch.

This would allow the caregiver (me) to control the lights from the wall instead of leaning over the opposite side of the bed.
I have no idea of what options would be needed, but full on, off and some low position are on the table. An exit delay would be on the table too. e.g. dim to off over a short time.

What would be another use of the touch screen is to control the bed.
e.g.
Change diaper mode. (full up, prone)
Sleep position (full up, head slightly raised)
In wheelchair. (bed height positioned above wheelchair, back up somewhat)
Out wheelchair to bed. (bed height below the wheelchair height, back up somewhat)
Full UP.

I might be able to detect a rocking motion with an accelerometer and stop the UP/Down motion.
I have no idea how to handle any of this except manual control and "full up". Both usefull.

Vertical blinds, lock, camera also possible.

Manual control via a wall panel would be useful by itself.

Lighting is most annoying right now. There is always some new person that reaches for the lamp and it would be nice if it turned on or off,

But the larger project is the radio and not a surround sound system. Just a stupid radio.

So, lighting and radio.
 
Have a look at Homeseer for a controller with a Z-Wave-Me usb interface and Z-Wave devices.

There are multiple phone apps, web interfaces & just about anything you can think of for control and monitoring.
You can use cheap tablets as wall touchscreens, with customisable / multi-page interfaces it you want.

You can add such as a TKB TZ74 module behind a lightswitch (if it has a neutral) or somewhere between that and the lamp, to add remote control and status indication to existing lamps, while retaining switch control.
About $25 from Aliexpress & they control two lights.

There are also dimmer versions.

My setup integrates the security system & heating thermostats via a link to an Omnipro controller, whole house audio via a serial link to some XAP800 programmable mixers & a plugin that communicates with Winamp, various boiler and radiator pipe temperatures via serial data from a little Siemens PLC that controls my central heating & numerous other things.
Plus lighting, which automatically switches to emulated occupation while the security system is set to "away" mode.

There are also several ways of sensing if a person (or their phone) is either in the area or in the house.

Or, eg. If you want programmable RGB lighting under your kitchen units (as one of my relatives does), a tiny Fibaro RGBW module will connect directly to 12V or 24V RGB LED "tape" for infinitely variable or scene-settable colours..

Blind controls are available from many places.

It's pretty much that if parts exist, there will be some way of interconnecting them with the control system.
 
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