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Well, at least you know how to paint. It could easily take an hour to paint just about anything not including dry time. Primer (1 hour painting) and 24 hours drying and the finish coat the same way. Then there's the paint where if you mess up, it has to dry for a week.
I suspect your left-handed.
Criticisms:
Your binding posts don';t have the standard spacing.
Sometimes it makes sense to include a green for protective ground.
Dry transfer lettering is scarce these days, but I labeled plenty of panel that way. I typically used white lettering on a black panel and followed it with a coat of clear.
If it were me and at one time I had access to a mill with readout but not CNC. I see the USB port to be the most problematic.
I'd use pilot point bits or step-drills (Unibits) for round holes. Hole saws are another choice and for odd dimensioned round holes a sort of fly cutter. I have a Dewalt set of pilot point bits and also a three set Unibit set at home now.
At home and what I used to use at work, I have something like this: https://www.boschtools.com/Products/Tools/Pages/BoschProductDetail.aspx?pid=JS470EB Variable speed,, T shank, and supported by a roller. The jig saw also supports various amounts of "wiggle". It moves the blade away from the work to clear the chips. Great for aluminum.
Take some double-sided tape and put it on the bottom plate, but DO NOT remove the other side. It will provide a mar-free sliding surface. Drill 4 holes at the corners for the bit and file square.
Your other choice is a nibbler.
Options for the USB hole would be a jewelers or coping saw and jewelers files. Drill the hole at the ends and insert the blade through the hole. If you had a hardened lathe tool blank, this could be used to outline the edge when gripped in a vise and your filing and/or cutting.
Normal drills cut a triagular like hole. The step-drill and the pilot point/brad point drill bit won't.
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